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Routes in Turtle Rock

Flake, The V2 5+
Gold Rush V2 5+
Harmony V1+ 5
Hidden Shell NW V1+ 5
Reach, The V3 6A
Seam, The V3 6A
Traverse Jr. V2 5+
Turtle Rock Traverse V4 6B
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Type: Boulder, 20 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,242 total · 14/month
Shared By: Turtle_Rock_Addict on Mar 23, 2005
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Suggest Change]

Begin at the South Eastern extreme of Turtle. There is a flake that juts out and points towards Angel Island at the base. There are two small moons right next to each other right above this flake. Use these moons as the starting hand holds, and use the flake as the starting foot hold. Start traversing counterclockwise (the next move should be to a downwards horn underneath an outcropping out the rock. Traverse until you come to a cavity in the rock. This should be at the other side of the outcropping of the rock. Begin ascending. Go above the out cropping where there should be an abundance of nice holds. Harmony bears slightly left here, you're on the route if on your left there is a pretty nice horn and you have to come close to a hand-foot match to get to a pseudo-rail for a foot hold. finally on your right is a really nice bucket at the top of the rock. You'll have to search for this bucket with your hand for a little bit, but once you find it you'll fall in love with it. Mantle and top out. You should be at the highest part of Turtle Rock. Why did I name this Harmony? As soon as you go over the outcropping, there is an intense moment of pure bliss and peace. When I first sent this problem, at this moment, it seemed as though I was no longer a separate entity from the rock, but rather a new part of it. I rarely find this kind of genuine and infinite focus and oneness with anything other than on Harmony. It is certainly not the most difficult or technical of bouldering problems I have ever done, but it is by far and away the most spiritually inspiring problem I have ever done (hence my obsession with Turtle Rock).

Protection [Suggest Change]

A crash pad is all you need, it is a little high, but the higher parts are the easier parts of the problem

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drunkenmaster
santa rosa, cali
drunkenmaster   santa rosa, cali
hey turtle addict you cant be serious - a f.a. on turtle rock? that's one of the most climbed on boulders in the whole bay area. i could be wrong though it could be a new link up? or even have a few new moves to it that you had to clean? but still does it deserve a name? and/or do you really deserve to name it when so many others have probably climbed all over it?i used to climb there all the time about ten years ago - so did all my friends for years before that. - - i say name it but keep it to your self because turtle is so climbed out if everyone was to start naming every new link up on it we would need a dictionary sized guide to remember the shit. May 31, 2005
Scott Robertson
Portland, OR
Scott Robertson   Portland, OR
It certainly is enticing to have the prospect of grabbing an f.a. in your head, and I also agree with drunkenmaster, it is always good to know the history (even "current events") of a climbing area you frequent before claiming your ascent. I have been holding my tongue for 3 years now (even though I know of only one other person to send it) after a possible f.a. up in Tahoe because I have credible information that a few of the stone-masters from Yosemite may have dabbled in that area many years ago, so until I Dale Bard shows up at 'my' boulders up there and I can ask him, I'll keep my mouth shut. Either way, regardless of the technicalities, I'm glad to hear you had such an amazing experience, no matter the place. Mar 19, 2006
clustiere  
 
LOL May 13, 2009
a little crazy! Feb 4, 2011

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