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Routes in Turtle Rock

Elevation: 521 ft
GPS: 37.911, -122.492 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 11,711 total · 60/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Oct 2, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

This Bouldering area is the best close-in bouldering area in the bay. Located just west of the parking area, it's a pretty easy walk from the parking area.

Offering nearly 360 degrees of overhung bouldering fun, this rock reaches 20 feet high in some places, and offers moves of all variety. Some people choose to top rope the highest section, as it's a fairly long drop to the ground from high up on the rock.

All routes can be walked off, as one side of the rock runs into the gentle hillside.

Getting There

From the main parking area, walk through the rightside gate and go up the paved road past the large pink mansion that was recently built. The pavement will end and the top of meatball rock will just out of the trees 50 feet right of the path. Continue on a smoothly graded gravel path that will take you up to the crest of the hill. From the crest, there is a large right offshoot, which you should take. This will head gently downhill to Turtle Rock, which is another 200 yards further.

8 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Turtle Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1+ 5
 3
Hidden Shell NW
Boulder
V2 5+
 7
Traverse Jr.
Boulder
V4 6B
 9
Turtle Rock Traverse
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Hidden Shell NW
 3
V1+ 5 Boulder
Traverse Jr.
 7
V2 5+ Boulder
Turtle Rock Traverse
 9
V4 6B Boulder
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This site only lists the traverse, but one of the really cool things about Turtle, is the endless potential to make up your own routes. I think that Turtle is really a great place to work on precision instead of power. If you're looking for an arete (sorry I don't have the accent marks in place) or for some dyno practice Turtle's got it. One route I made up that starts on the south east side of the rock called "Harmony" is a great problem to get you comfortable with a variety of moves and with height for soloing (Harmony goes up the tallest part of Turtle). The lower moves are techincal for beginners but not impossible (i.e, V2) and the top part is V0, if even that. Anyway I just thought I'd put in a good word of this amazingly rock. If you want a really groovy bouldering session I highly recommend it. P.S. To the creaters of this website thank you, this has really helped me find some more climbing opportunities locally. May 16, 2005
noah dailey
Mill Valley, CA
noah dailey   Mill Valley, CA
Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
Thanks for the input. I think I posted correctly about this place: "This Bouldering area is the best close-in bouldering area in the bay." There are a ton of ways to move up this thing... I didn't know the names of any of the variations 15 years ago, so I didn't post them. If you do, by all means... Add 'em! Jan 8, 2018

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