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Routes in Butt Rock

Butt Crack TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Center Face S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
In The Butt TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
West Buttress TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,680 total · 9/month
Shared By: Paul Rezucha on Jan 30, 2004
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock Details


Center Face sits on the south facing slabby wall and starts at the bottom, center section of rock, just left of a tree. Thin face moves up and right gain you to steeper rock where there is one bolt. Move up and right past bolt to easier climbing to the top. Fun climbing for the moderate level climber and variations to the left can increase the difficulty by a grade or so.


Although this south face would make excellent moderate leads, there is only one bolt midway up. If you are tempted to lead this, be careful as this bolt is a teaser and you may find yourself quickly high off the ground, with no gear, and a few scary down climbing moves to get off. Believe me... Bring long slings to set up a proper toprope.


As mentioned above, It would be a very tricky climb to the first bolt. Otherwise, this was a fun climb but, not too difficult. It is at least one grade harder to the left, basically sraight up the center. A very fingery and thin climb which entailed more technical foot work as the the finger holds proved more crucial to balance than for pulling your self up. Climbed this route a few times, was far smoother on second ascent. Feb 4, 2004
From the ground it looked like getting to the bolt would be easy, but it was definitely more scary higher up, especially for a beginner like me. I made it to the bolt only because I couldn't downclimb on the slab. On the other hand, the route felt much easier on toprope. The chimney is the safer way to get to the top to set up an anchor. Jul 12, 2004
kevin deweese
Oakland, Ca
kevin deweese   Oakland, Ca
looks a lot easier from the base of the route. tried to freesolo it with a pack on and my aproach shoes. Scariest 20 minutes of my life. Mar 4, 2007
Brian Snider
Brian Snider   NorCal
Great route for beginners to learn foot work and smearing also a fun climb for a novice with lots of variations to test your friction moves. Chimney to the top is the safest but may be tough for a large climber as it is a tight squeeze. Long slings 50'+ to build an anchor off the boulders. Rap from tree or bushes. Jul 26, 2010

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