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Routes in Center Wall

All Guns Blazing S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Big Chief Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bird of Prey S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blazing Buckets S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Early Bird TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Eat the Worm S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flamethrower S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Force Feed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Funambulist S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Green Hornet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Head Rush S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Killer Bee S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lost Souls S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mohawk S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mud Falcon S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mud Shark S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Peace Dance S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Peace Pipe S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pow Wow S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Raindance S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Route Stealers From Hell S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Running Bull S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Scalper S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Toilet Earth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Too Light to Wait S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Totally Chawsome S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Trail of Tears S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Travail Buttress S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wampum S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
War Paint S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
War Path S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Wicked Quickie S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Witch Doctor S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: D. Hatchett, J. McKitterick 1992
Page Views: 259 total, 1/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Aug 22, 2002 with updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Description

The notably overhung climb located right of the easily-recognized Wampum, which ascends the water stained slight dihedral. Climb up a steep face with slick feet to the first bolt just beneath the roof, then pull the roof and continue up past another 3 bolts on easier climbing.

The rock through the first few bolts is very sharp, not the best climb for early in your day

Protection

4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. The first clip is pretty far off the ground, so a crash pad or something would be nice.

Photos

Seth Hogan
Frisco, Co
 
Seth Hogan   Frisco, Co
 
Trend right, staying on the face for this entire route, its all there. Jul 5, 2015
mattymck
Rocklin, Ca
  5.11a
mattymck   Rocklin, Ca
  5.11a
I've done this route a few times and I don't think the first bolt is all that high up, just sort of bouldery with a flat landing, just clear away any small ankle-rolling rocks from the landing zone and have your belayer yard out 15' of rope so that they can spot you until you make the first clip, well protected beyond that. Jul 4, 2012
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.10d PG13
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.10d PG13
The fall didn't seem too good since you're landing on a rock. We didn't have a stick clip or the balls to climb to the 1st bolt unprotected, so I stood on my buddy's shoulders to clip, then the belayer put me on belay. Quite a way to start a climb! Aug 23, 2011
Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
You're pretty much done once you get to the first bolt, so stick clip this bolt to avoid groudnfall, or just don't fall until you're clipped. The runway for a long fall is pretty good, but make sure that your belayer is ready to catch you.

This is not a good route to have someone who believes in drinking, smoking and lead belaying simultaneously belaying you. Oct 19, 2002