Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: D. Hatchett, J. McKitterick 1992
Page Views: 415 total · 2/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Aug 22, 2002 with improvements by Lukas Wiborg
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


33 Opinions

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Description

The notably overhung climb located right of the easily-recognized Wampum, which ascends the water stained slight dihedral. Climb up a steep face with slick feet to the first bolt just beneath the roof, then pull the roof and continue up past another 3 bolts on easier climbing.

The rock through the first few bolts is very sharp, not the best climb for early in your day

Protection

4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. The first clip is pretty far off the ground, so a crash pad or something would be nice.

Photos

Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
You're pretty much done once you get to the first bolt, so stick clip this bolt to avoid groudnfall, or just don't fall until you're clipped. The runway for a long fall is pretty good, but make sure that your belayer is ready to catch you.

This is not a good route to have someone who believes in drinking, smoking and lead belaying simultaneously belaying you. Oct 19, 2002
Josh Cameron
M.O.A.B.
  5.10d PG13
Josh Cameron   M.O.A.B.
  5.10d PG13
The fall didn't seem too good since you're landing on a rock. We didn't have a stick clip or the balls to climb to the 1st bolt unprotected, so I stood on my buddy's shoulders to clip, then the belayer put me on belay. Quite a way to start a climb! Aug 23, 2011
mattymck
Rocklin, Ca
  5.11a
mattymck   Rocklin, Ca
  5.11a
I've done this route a few times and I don't think the first bolt is all that high up, just sort of bouldery with a flat landing, just clear away any small ankle-rolling rocks from the landing zone and have your belayer yard out 15' of rope so that they can spot you until you make the first clip, well protected beyond that. Jul 4, 2012
Seth Hogan
Frisco, Co
 
Seth Hogan   Frisco, Co
 
Trend right, staying on the face for this entire route, its all there. Jul 5, 2015