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> San Francisco B…
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> Summit Rock Area
> Lower Tier
Rectalphobiac
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British R
Avg: 3.3 from 3
votes
Routes in Lower Tier
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Bolt Filcher S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bulging Crack, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chancroid T,S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Double Cracks T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Enter Sandman S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Glob of Shit S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Molar, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Rectalphobiac S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Ribbed For Comfort TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rigormorris S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Roof Crack, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Skillsaw Gourmet T,S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Spung-Lick-A-Litus S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Tree Surgeon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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University of Santa Clara Practice Climb 1 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wide Crack T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Worm Belly S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 37.24082, -122.09849 |
| FA: | Brad Watson (TR) 7/22/91 |
| Page Views: | 4,050 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Aron Quiter on Jun 7, 2002 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure for Peregrine Falcon Nesting
Details
Open on weekends and holidays from Sep 1 to Jan 31. Open from 8am to Sunset.
Nov 2015: "The land managers have asked that we stay off the climbs that go through the nest of the peregrine falcons - we have put tags on the anchors and the first bolts of the climbs. The climbs that are effected are:
Rectalphobiac
Glob of Shit
Double Cracks
As of Oct 4, 2014, Summit Rock at Sanborn County Park is open seasonally to climbing on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. Around January 2015, if nesting activity is observed by park rangers, climbing may be closed or limited to permits again. The free permit system limits access to 35 people a day, subject to the results of an ongoing peregrine/climber monitoring program. Climbers can call the Parks Department reservation line at 408-355-2201, give their contact information, and receive the free permit immediately by email. Please remember to close all gates and observe all posted signs.
Nov 2015: "The land managers have asked that we stay off the climbs that go through the nest of the peregrine falcons - we have put tags on the anchors and the first bolts of the climbs. The climbs that are effected are:
Rectalphobiac
Glob of Shit
Double Cracks
As of Oct 4, 2014, Summit Rock at Sanborn County Park is open seasonally to climbing on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. Around January 2015, if nesting activity is observed by park rangers, climbing may be closed or limited to permits again. The free permit system limits access to 35 people a day, subject to the results of an ongoing peregrine/climber monitoring program. Climbers can call the Parks Department reservation line at 408-355-2201, give their contact information, and receive the free permit immediately by email. Please remember to close all gates and observe all posted signs.
Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am.
Details
Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Access Issue: Reopened! Permit Required (see details)
Details
Nov 2015: "The land managers have asked that we stay off the climbs that go through the nest of the peregrine falcons - we have put tags on the anchors and the first bolts of the climbs. The climbs that are effected are:
Rectalphobiac
Glob of Shit
Double Cracks
The nest has moved each year so it might be different routes next season - we will move the tags and update you." - Matt from the Bay Area Climbers Coalition.
As of Oct 4, 2014, Summit Rock at Sanborn County Park is open seasonally to climbing on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. Around January 2015, if nesting activity is observed by park rangers, climbing may be closed or limited to permits again. The free permit system limits access to 35 people a day, subject to the results of an ongoing peregrine/climber monitoring program. Climbers can call the Parks Department reservation line at 408-355-2201, give their contact information, and receive the free permit immediately by email. Please remember to close all gates and observe all posted signs.
Rectalphobiac
Glob of Shit
Double Cracks
The nest has moved each year so it might be different routes next season - we will move the tags and update you." - Matt from the Bay Area Climbers Coalition.
As of Oct 4, 2014, Summit Rock at Sanborn County Park is open seasonally to climbing on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. Around January 2015, if nesting activity is observed by park rangers, climbing may be closed or limited to permits again. The free permit system limits access to 35 people a day, subject to the results of an ongoing peregrine/climber monitoring program. Climbers can call the Parks Department reservation line at 408-355-2201, give their contact information, and receive the free permit immediately by email. Please remember to close all gates and observe all posted signs.
Description
This route begins below a large rock in the middle of the lower tier of climbing. A fun route that has an overhung section, some neato caves, and also a tough slab section at the top.
Falling prior to the first clip is really not a great idea, as the bounce into the glassy sand deck wouldn't be fun. The section after the 2nd bolt is runout, but simple and fun.
The crux is getting to the last bolt on a balancy slab.
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