Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Joe Herbst and Matt MacMackin, 1975
Page Views: 1,646 total · 9/month
Shared By: Matt Faust on Feb 20, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

32 Opinions

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


I haven't been on this yet, so probably somebody else could write a better description. This is the most obvious crack on the face, located on the far right. Route goes up a wide section through a roof, then continues on at a lower angle to the same bolted anchor as Head Case.

The only other thing I'm going to say is . . . Joe Herbst . . . offwidth . . . 1975 . . .


Gear to #4 Camalto


Tom Fralich
Fort Collins, CO
Tom Fralich   Fort Collins, CO
Pretty hard for Red Rocks 5.9. The new red Brock guidebook rates it at 5.10a. The biggest gear needed is a #3 Camalot...there's nowhere to place a #4. Really fun route with great gear. A bit awkward, but not too bad. Nov 12, 2006
Salt Lake City, Utah
46and2   Salt Lake City, Utah
Super fun route with plenty of gear places and a kinda fun/awkward roof sequence. Feet facing left or right?? Figure it out as its not so obvious but is really fun!! A natural thread anchor with slings is at the top of this route or you can traverse left to Head Case anchors. If it's 5.9 (Red Rocks); then it would be stout for that grade IMO. May 24, 2007
Larry DeAngelo
Las Vegas, NV
Larry DeAngelo   Las Vegas, NV  
Worth noting that the Red Book called it 5.8 (the same as Lady Wilson's Cleavage)... May 24, 2007
Fun route, it's 9+, crux protects with .4 camalot, and if it's so fun, why only 1.5 stars? I give it classic status-the only reason anyone legitimately walks up to this cliff, so let's hear it for hard case! Jul 6, 2007
Brandontru   Nevada
Its a good route after soilent green jeans, just walk on over to it. Oct 21, 2009
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
This is a very good line. Pulling the bulge is slightly awkward but a few hard pulls and it's over quickly. The rest of the route is very good, consistent 5.8 movement. There IS a spot for a #4 Camalot... right after the bulge. Jan 31, 2012
Mina Canzon
Las Vegas, nv
Mina Canzon   Las Vegas, nv
great route Apr 4, 2012
Burton Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burton Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Great one pitch 5.9+ with a thrutchy roof pull. Excellent gear. There is no offwith anywhere on this climb.... all the jams are bomber. Nice position up high over the car park. My only gripe was that the top anchor left just a little bit to be desired... but it was possible to back it up with smallest Metolious 3 or 4 cam. Apr 9, 2012
Edward Pyune
Las Vegas, NV
Edward Pyune   Las Vegas, NV
It took a while to figure out the moves, but after figuring it out, I really didn't think this was a 5.9. It felt at least 5.10a to me, maybe I'm a weenie though. Nov 26, 2012
Weston L
Pretty simple 5.9 once you figure the moves out. Some thought required and the moves are awkward, but no harder than 5.9, especially given the era this route was put up. No OW on this, gear to 3" will more than suffice.

RE: The anchor, it is possible to go straight up to a sling anchor, but you can also do an easy traverse out left to a pair of bolts. This is what I did and the bolts appear to be in sound condition. Apr 19, 2013
Jared Wicks
Las Vegas
Jared Wicks   Las Vegas
I tend to agree that this is pretty stout for the grade and found the crux to be in the .10a range as well. It's pretty chill after that though and super fun with good gear.

If 5.9 is the top of your trad leading ability, I would NOT recommend getting on this route. I left a fresh piece of cordelette at the top but I definitely agree with one of the earlier posters that this anchor leaves a lot to be desired.

Fun route and definitely recommend it. Aug 4, 2013
josh holcomb
Las Vegas, NV
josh holcomb   Las Vegas, NV
Great climb with sweet jams and locks. Nov 22, 2014
Awkward? Yes. Awesome? Completely. Don't let the awkwardness throw you off. Yes, it's weird low and through the roof, especially if you have bigger hands, but this is a great crack definitely worth doing. Oct 4, 2016