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> Outhouse Rock
> Outhouse Rock - E Face
The Loo Sanction
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 1.7 from 21
votes
Routes in Outhouse Rock - East Face
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Diagonal Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Loo Sanction, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Straight Flush T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Strawberry Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wise Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 34.01995, -116.1634 |
| FA: | (TR): Todd Swain, May 1991, FL: Todd Gordon & Cyndie Bransford, November 1991 |
| Page Views: | 1,345 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Bo Johnston on Oct 5, 2005 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Start below a scooped face with three bolts. The scooped face is between Strawberry Jam and Straight Flush. There are two possible starts - a grainy, wide crack or via the left side of a pedestal. The bolted section above is the crux. You'll need to move left and nearly campus up ledges and dynos! The finishing roof underclings are good as well with adequate pro and be sure to extend those runners to avoid drag.
The Loo Sanction was the next book written by the author Trevanian after writing The Eiger Sanction. He also wrote Shibumi, which is a route on the White Cliffs of Dover. In Great Britain, a bathroom/rest room is sometimes referred to as a "loo," hence the tie in with Outhouse Rock.
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