Type: Boulder, 16 ft
FA: John Bachar
Page Views: 12,280 total · 71/month
Shared By: Joe Brophy on Nov 2, 2004
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


113 Opinions

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Description

This classic problem takes a proud line directly up the middle of the large boulder near False Up 20 (V0-), and sits directly across the road from Double Cross. Depending on how tall you are there are a few different starting holds, but thin holds are the name of the game on this problem. Don't breath too hard as you might blow yourself off the crux, but as you hit that last hold with your right hand, rest assured that the final throw for the lip might look far but that hold is huge!

Protection

You will want 2 pads if you are working this by yourself. If not, 1 pad and a good spotter will do. It's probably about 15' high.

Photos

Crack Addict
San Diego, CA
 
Crack Addict   San Diego, CA
 
Technical and painful. A Josh classic. Love this problem! Jan 9, 2005
Adam Stackhouse

  V5-6 PG13
Adam Stackhouse    
  V5-6 PG13
No matter the starting holds one chooses, the crux comes at the end, which has spit off many talented climbers. Another desert classic. Jun 27, 2007
Tyler Logan
Mammoth Lakes, CA
 
Tyler Logan   Mammoth Lakes, CA
 
15' high Apr 3, 2008
NDTitanLady  
 
  • phew* Finally finished this amazing climb.

youtube.com/watch?v=mNLVxDJ… Apr 17, 2012
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
  V5
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
  V5
Titan - Why are you climbing sideways? That's looks sketchy....jk

; ) Oct 4, 2013
Matt Michael
Oceanside, CA
  V5+
Matt Michael   Oceanside, CA
  V5+
Much harder for me than the neighboring False Block Head Sit Start (Also Rated V5), but so much better Dec 20, 2013
nathanael
Riverside, CA
nathanael   Riverside, CA
Starting hold is a goner as of 5/5/2016. Not guilty; found it this way.


May 5, 2016
Russ Walling
Overlord @ FishProducts
Russ Walling   Overlord @ FishProducts
Prolly the aftermath of those drytoolers from Pacoima. May 5, 2016
T. Stark
Los Angeles, CA
T. Stark   Los Angeles, CA
Saw the right hand start hold blown off when I went by it today... a shame for sure. May 7, 2016
RTM
RTM  



The hold that broke was not a part of the regular start sequence. The broken hold is shown in yellow. The normal start holds are in red, the starting foot is blue. Magenta marks where the left hand goes on the first move. Every hold that is part of the route is still intact as of 8/20/2016. Aug 21, 2016
David Ganahl
Corona
 
David Ganahl   Corona
 
Face climbing at its best. The break has no effect on the true line. Jan 13, 2017
This was so easy for Bacher that he didn't name it any thing. Except for a "snort" on the top out not a sound was heard when this was first sent. Jan 17, 2018
anyone know if this problem faces east? May 2, 2018
Nealsen, pretty much faces due north. May 4, 2018
Ashley Swenson
Pasadena, CA
Ashley Swenson   Pasadena, CA
youtu.be/AOxlA0WJz1I Jan 20, 2019