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Routes in Split Dome

Big Boy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bike Across America T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bite Me T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bumpy S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
C-Section T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
C.C. Takes San Jose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cleared For Takeoff T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Desert Sky (aka Environment-Oil President) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Felch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Gynogroove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
In And Out T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nipple, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Nuptual Sac T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Porky's Excellent Adventure T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Potato Gun, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Too Obvious T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turtle Vein T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Todd Gordon, Tucker Tech, Tom Burke
Page Views: 286 total, 2/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

An easy start leads to a high first bolt after which the climbing is sustained and well protected. Good moves on unusal rock make this a fun route to do when in the area.

The minimal approach and somewhat novel rock make this a route to seek out. One star out of five.

Location

Located on the west face of Split Dome, just behind and right of Overbolted Rock, on a very featured section of rock.

Protection

4 bolts, anchors (all 3/8")

Photos

B. Klaasic
Long Beach, CA
  5.7
B. Klaasic   Long Beach, CA
  5.7
I lead this on 10/27/2017. It was a fun climb. The rock was a bit gritty and the crux move required some commitment. When I climbed it, there was 1 bolt and two pitons that lead to a bolted anchor. The left anchor bolt is spinning in place and it has a single aluminum beaner for rapping. The beaner is halfway worn through and could use some steel rings. I actually really enjoyed this climb. Quick approach and fun moves. Oct 30, 2017
Michael Lagueux
San Diego, CA
  5.7
Michael Lagueux   San Diego, CA
  5.7
I found this to be EXTREMELY fun and funky climbing--perhaps a bit easy for the 5.8 grade. Great moves, lots of gritty slopers and mantels! Dec 16, 2016
Hey Todd, thanks for the update! Looks like Nurse Ratchet and I repeated Gynogroove. Fun route. Also went up through an inside passage way back in the back. C-Section. 5.9 squeeze. I've edited the Sea Monster entry to reflect your name and ascent. I take it you guys didn't try the pitch-dark, spelunking inside squeeze?

Brutus Apr 22, 2009
Regarding the un-named crack to the left of Bumpy:

If this is the first big chimney to the right of In and Out and Big Boy, Nurse Ratchet and I climbed two routes in this chimney this past week:

C-Section (5.9 squeeze) climbs back and up through a narrow inside passage. Probable first ascent because I had to move some chockstones out of the way in order to fit through.

Sea Monster (5.5 OW) climbs the outside of the wavy chimney. This is likely the easy, un-named (until now) crack. Definitely not an FA, the rock was very clean, and due to its easy access and prominence when viewed from the parking area, likely many ascents over the years. Protection from #2 to #4 Big Bros. Apr 20, 2009
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
Fun, unusual climbing make this a worthwhile quick tick. A good choice for cold days. There's an easy (unnamed?) crack just left (5.3?). Nov 15, 2004
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
Sad to hear about the routes getting whacked. All of the Bumpy routes were nice additions to the area that were fun, well-protected and would clean up nicely with time and further ascents.

Odd that the newer Bumpy routes (Son Of Bumpy and Return Of Bumpy), not the original route were chopped. The two newer ones were in an inconspicuous location and not at all visible until right at them. The bolts were glued in drilled angles (the rock wasn't the best) and it would have taken a bit of effort to remove, not to mention the ugly gaping holes left behind. Mar 12, 2004
May we all bow our heads for a moment of silence for the death of Son of Bumpy and Bumby's Cousin.....They weren't great routes, but fun loving routes. They were part of a family (The Bumpys), ....those who knew them, loved them.....snuffed out like a candle. Shame on the "murderers" of the Bumpys. Whoever chopped the Bumpys, probably cheats on their taxes, pulls the labels off of pillows, and goes through other's underware drawers when visiting. Cemented in drilled pitons (ugly), holes in rock where drilled pins were (uglier), murderer of Bumpys (ugliest). Mar 9, 2004
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
 
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
 
There were two other routes in the "Bumpy" family. Bumpys Cousin and Son of Bumpy. Both in the 5.7 range. Three bolts each and anchors. Well, a friend and I (Yes I do actually have friends thank you. But they usually don't last) went to check them out today. Gone are the bolts etc... Now there remains six ugly holes unplugged. Ashamed! I may possibly have been at the wrong routes (I doubt it) None the less, to see bolts gone and not properly taken care of? If the need to remove is in you, can't whomever you are do it right? Mar 9, 2004
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
 
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
 
I just did this one and agree with Chris Miller. It is a nice mid range climb, well protected, easy walkoff, close to the road and other cool climbs. I wish it were longer. But that won't happen. A bit gritty and when wet, slippery (No shit! But I did it right after a drizzle so I thought I would add that in). A nice little warm up or wind down? I give it a "5.fun" Quote R.A. Feb 28, 2004