All Locations > California > Joshua Tree NP > Hidden Valley Area > Real Hidden Valley > Hidden Cliff

Bikini Whale

Name: Bikini Whale
Rating: 3.8

5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British

Routes in The Hidden Cliff

L › R R › L A › Z

	Against the Grain T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Bikini Beach TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Bikini Whale S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	G-String S 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
	Railer T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R

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Type:	Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
GPS:	34.01292, -116.17137
FA:	(TR) Antoine & Marc LeMenestrel 1984, FL: Kurt Smith, December 1987
Page Views:	9,220 total · 31/month
Shared By:	Randy on Dec 31, 2001
Admins:	Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.

The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

This route is located in the narrow corridor past Illusion Dweller, on the right side. The climb starts about 25 feet from the very end of the narrow corridor, where you would have to climb up to continue in that direction. Bikini Whale, Railer, Bikini Beach, and G-String all start at the same spot and share the first two bolts.

This five-bolt, overhanging, face route heads straight up the face and a seam. The powerful "lock-off" past the first bolt is considered the crux, although the pump factor makes the moves past the last (5th) bolt seem pretty hard too. Shorter climbers may want to stick-clip the first bolt, as the move getting to it is a bit reachy.

This climb is easily (and often) top roped (bring slings to extend rope over the edge).

Originally rated 5.12a, some holds have broken off and thus consensus seems to be that the route is now solid 5.12.

John Bachar (and perhaps others) soloed this route.