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Routes in Wally World

Devil Inside T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Griswolds, The (aka Hotseat) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Large Marge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wally George T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: (TR) D. Evans, T. Gordon & J. Angione 1/88; FL: D. Evans & C. Fry
Page Views: 170 total, 1/month
Shared By: David Evans on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb steep moves past a horizontal crack to knobs and mantle a small ledge. Continue straight up to the right end of the ledge that crosses the face. Lean out right and latch the patina plate (shaped vaguely like the state of Calif.). Climb to the top of this and reach the top. Al's book shows it incorrectly traversing off on the ledge which crosses the face. With 2 more bolts it would actually be fun, too scary otherwise.

Protection

The pro on this route is sketchy at best. A cam in the horizontal crack and a 1/4" bolt protect steep moves to a small ledge. There may be a runner placement here. One hangerless 1/4" bolt takes you to the top.

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C Miller
CA
  5.10c
C Miller   CA  
  5.10c
Climbed this back when it had hangers on both bolts and finished the proper (direct) way. It was a decent route with adequate pro. Replace the bolts but don't add any...it would make it safer but not any better. One star out of five. Dec 17, 2003