Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Pinhead Boulder

Holenoid (aka The Grundle from Down Under) V0+ 4+
Holenoid Right Side V1- 5-
Paddler V-easy 3
Pinhead 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c V0 4
Pinhead Traverse V-easy 3
Zippy the Pinhead V0+ 4+
Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 13,462 total, 71/month
Shared By: M. Morley on May 8, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


137 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This 15' blockish boulder is located approximately 100 yards from the pit toilet at the end of the back loop of Hidden Valley Campground along obvious trail. Several excellent problems exist. Pinhead follows the prominent fingertip crack along the west face. Fingerlocks up crack and mantle to top. Downclimb east face.

Protection

Crash pad.

Easy but enjoyable problem. Feet are so good that it makes the need for good hand placement unnecessary. Taller people will finish this in two or three moves. May 19, 2015
Ian G.
PDX, OR
  V0
Ian G.   PDX, OR
  V0
Damn, some hatin' on this problem. I thought it was fun, just high enough to make you think. Good practice for beginning crack climbers... Sep 18, 2009
This problem isn't even the best of them on the boulder. The fun slabby problem just to the left is a great thin experience too. Going even futher left- it's really fun to mantle up over the bulge...undercling pockets to sloper over the top. Great warm up boulder, and you can safely work it yourself if your going solo. Feb 29, 2008
Fun, done either with or without shoes... Jul 28, 2006
Aaron Williams
  5.8+
Aaron Williams  
  5.8+
Im only twelve and i have tiny fingers im from out east so i thounght it was more V1 but it is indeed a classic i also did the arete to left which is awsome but have a good spot an the route to the left of that an awsome boulder for the evening like around sunset! Apr 2, 2005
Steven Powers
  5.9
Steven Powers  
  5.9
its still a fun boulder problem, not everyone owns chacos so it might be a little tuffer for them, i have vans its a little harder in vans. Oct 12, 2003
not even worth a warm up i sent the piece in my chacos Oct 10, 2003
More like a low 5.10, for what it's worth.

Personally, being the gumbie that I am when it comes to bouldering (and most other climbing too, but especially bouldering -- I'm one of those who can climb all the VBs, but still get spanked by most of the V0s), I really like what Gingery does in her guide, giving things YDS ratings through 10 (effectively 10-), then moving up through the V ratings. Aug 27, 2003