Avg: 3.8 from 48 votes
Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
|FA:||Ken Trout, Kirk Miller (May 1981) according to Desert Rock|
|Page Views:||14,356 total · 84/month|
|Shared By:||J Hickok on Oct 13, 2005|
|Admins:||slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
P1 - Easy left facing dihedral leads to a ledge. Climb around a small amount of looseness and up a small and short right facing dihedral. The belay is here, right below a curving crack that will appear somewhat wide. GRADE: 5.9
P2 - Climb the curving crack above the anchor. After reaching a ledge, clip a long sling to the fixed gear and ascend the low angle wide crack to a big ledge on a pedestal. (Or belay below the low angle wide crack and separate that pitch.) GRADE: 5.10+
P3 - Move slightly left to the obvious thin crack which is a shallow right facing dihedral. Climb the thinner crack and then offwidth to a large belay ledge. A great rest appears after the thin climbing. There are smaller gear placements to be found in the offwidth sections. GRADE: 5.11
P4 - Climb blocky ledges and then a chimney. Finish on a ledge with a fixed anchor. Supposedly, another option is to climb poor rock through ledges and another chimney to the right. Either way, this pitch has the most loose climbing on the tower. GRADE: 5.8 or 5.9
P5 - Begin off a very large ledge. A variety of climbing leads up, out a bulge, slightly right and then traverses left again to a good ledge. Next, either move left to a free variation or use the bolt ladder above the ledge. We aided the bolt ladder which led back to face climbing free moves to a ledge right below the summit cap rock with an anchor. GRADE: 5.11 maybe some A0
Summit by having your partner belay the easy moves up and back down from the cap rock. Register on top. Never saw an anchor on the very top.
Extra #0.5 Camalots, #3 Camalots or equivalent.
Bringing gear larger than an old style B.D. #4 Camalot is up to your discretion as a desert climber.
We took one 70m rope and made single-rope rappels back down safely from anchor to anchor. Fixed anchors at the top of every pitch.