Type: Trad, Grade II
FA: Layton Kor, Larry Dalke
Page Views: 4,349 total · 18/month
Shared By: Frank Stock on Apr 27, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Wildlife Closures Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The route starts in the obvious huge chimney system on the East side of the rock, on the opposite side of the tower as Washer Woman. Scramble up some loose 4th/easy 5th class to a piton hammered at the base of the chimney. This is the last fixed gear you will see until the final bolt ladder. Midway up the tower the route traverses 1/4 way around the tower to the left, and then again traverses left before the last two pitches.

P1: 5.8? Climb the easy 5.6 narrow sloping chimney with poor gear to gain the obvious big full stem chimney. Grovel up the ramp in the large chimney, passing huge loose death blocks to gain a crack system. Climb the wide chimney protecting in the crack to a huge chock stone. Set a belay using cracks on either side while perched on a wobbly stone. (note: there are no slings around the really big boulder as it says in the Burns guide).

P2: 5.8? Finish the chimney, exiting by pulling over more big, loose piles. If you are belaying, where a helmet and don't look up-your belay holds you directly below any falling junk.

P3: 5.10 dirty and loose. This is the cool looking splitter that you see in both Burns guide and from the ground. Beware the large pillar in the corner. It broke off and fell into the corner when I touched it. Climb the loose hands to good hands crack that is filled with dirt. A mantle onto a ledge with 3" of dirt finishes the pitch.

Now traverse left around the corner on 4th class to the obvious crack.

P4: Climb the crack which ranges from fingers to OW, heavy on the hands. Beware loose stuff, especially head sized blocks sitting right in the route about 20 feet above the belay. Slings are helpful.

P5: (we combined this with P4): Continued up the crack-Burns calls this pitch loose which is an understatement. This would be a great pitch if it were clean, however it isn't and it sucks.

Now traverse way around until you are on a ledge, below a difficult looking crack, with Washer Woman directly across from you. You will pass a crack that may seem correct with a fixed anchor - it is not.

P6: Finally, the rock is better. Climb the thin crack, which looks hard (it's not) but gets constantly harder. I suppose you could set a belay midway, but we linked it with P7 as the belay would suck and you really are only up about 50 feet off the belay.

P7: Bolt Ladder to a 5.9ish free move and then 5.5 slabby to the last anchor.

P8: Not really a pitch-there are no summit anchors so you have to scamper up an easy cone to the top and then downclimb.

Descent: Rap the North Ridge. A single 60 gets you back to the last belay from the top. From there you can do three single rope raps or one single and a double. From there, a double rope gets you to the ground-I didn't see an intermediate anchor enabling a two rope rap. I also think you could rap to the saddle between Washer Woman and Monster and then do low 5th class downclimbing to get down.

Comments: Great view from top, but a poor choice of routes to get there. Bring goggles. Also, Monster Tower and Washer Woman sit in a wind tunnel. Watch your ropes on the rap.

Protection

Fixed gear on the last pitch. Two sets of friends through #4 with an extra piece in the 1" size. Set of stoppers. Bring a couple long slings.

Photos