Type: Trad, 350 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,529 total · 38/month
Shared By: Mike Babin on Mar 27, 2003
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Hoop Dancer is located on the Hummingbird Spire. It climbs the first pitch of Sacred Space, which is a corner system below the notch between King of Pain south summit and Hummingbird Spire. It then climbs the splitter on the north face of Hummingbird.

Pitch 1: Starts in the corner with the large loose looking blocks about 30-40 ft up. Carefully hand jam up over and past the 4-5 stacked blocks, with the last one looking ready to take the plunge. These are what give the pitch the X rating, but really its not as bad as it sounds. Next do some awkward moves that place you in a squeeze chimney, and then over some more broken ground to the notch. 5.9R/X

Pitch 2: When you see the splitter you will then realize the first pitch was worth it. Move the belay down to the start of splitter and get ready to jam the overhanging crack with amazing position and exposure. U pon finishing the crack you will have to again climb on some very loose rock so be careful. Reaching the top I found no anchors and placed some cams in some very suspect rock. Definitely adventure climbing. 5.11

Descent: Downclimb to the rap anchors on the south end of the tower, and then make 3 raps to the ground. We made the mistake of trying to to it in two raps, but the rope drag was too much and I had to prusikk back up 130 ft to free the ropes.

Protection

triples in #1-#3 friends supplemented with camalots, 1 #3.5 friend and 1 #3 camalot, doubles of .75 friends and blue tcu's, several long runners for the first pitch and maybe a bolt kit for new anchors on top.

Photos