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East Face
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.5 from 168
votes
Routes in Sunflower Tower
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East Face T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Malidea T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 38.08824, -109.60041 |
| FA: | FA: Ed Webster, Alan Judish, 1984 |
| Page Views: | 13,030 total · 43/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Mottinger on Apr 28, 2001 · Updates |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! Raptor Closures!
Details
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
At the Fabulous Briger Jack area...Thumbelina and Sparkling Touch are the twin towers to the far left.Next to the right is the short but sweet (and now partially fallen) Easter Island Tower. Up and right of Easter Island is the blocky-topped Sunflower Tower.Just Right of that is the pointed Hummingbird Tower and the King Of Pain, with it's twin summits.
Walk to the base of the Sunflower tower on the east side (facing the camping sites and the road) and head to the tower's right side, just north of the north end of the summit block. There you'll see a nice thin hands crack just right of a low roof...
P1: Ascend the awkward (and strenuous) v-slot/open book through a bulge with decent hand jams and then move on to a fun stem box problem (easier than it looks). Belay on a pillar with a two bolt and pin anchor overlooking the cave below with a perfect #2 crack. One book calls this a finger crack, but not for my size. I nearly had my hands in it. (5.10)
P2: Walk a few steps left (south) over a big pillar behind you and then either step across the void to launch up off that flake or, move the belay down into the cave so as not to miss out on the ~15 ft of perfect hand jams, climbing back out and quickly getting into the business of the route as the crack thins. A small ledge with a fixed pin splits up the crux thin sections before eventually moving left on a few ledges to belay on another set of fixed anchors. (5.10+)
P3: Walk over to the left and around the corner to reach the Northwest corner of the square summit cap. Climb up and right past a few fixed pins (5.10) to get out onto a rest stance before committing to a runout finish that is a little sandy and soft. (5.8)
Belay from fixed anchors and then rap down the East face to the ground.
Photos
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