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Routes in Space Tower Area

Bonafide T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hallow Souls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Skinny Puppy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Trad, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Tom Gilje and Eric Decaria
Page Views: 3,742 total, 20/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Mar 24, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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30 Opinions

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route is located directly across canyon from the one-pitch stuff at Ice Cream Parlor. It is on Space Tower, which is separated from the main cliff by a large chimney that faces NE. The tower appears to touch the canyon wall at the top (it is actually separated by about an inch).

Hallow Souls involves wild full body stemming inside the chimney. Begin by climbing 40 feet of easy choss to gain the clean crack system inside the chimney, on the main cliff. One can belay just inside the chimney, or at a wonderful little ledge about 1/2 way up, or do the whole tower in one rope-stretching pitch (not recommended--there would be lots of rope drag and the top is somewhat run-out).

Near the top the rock becomes soft and brittle and the crack dies out. Chimney out to the right to a good bolt, and continue until you can pull onto the tower side; a short hand crack leads to fixed anchors. This top section is scary--the position is phenomenal! Give yourself a long leash, tag the summit, and then make rap 50 meters to the ground.

Protection

Bring two sets of friends from 0.5 to 3, a set of tcus, and a few medium stoppers. Larger gear in the 4" range can be useful at the first belay.

Photos

Adam Fleming
Dillon, CO
  5.9+
Adam Fleming   Dillon, CO
  5.9+
Enjoy the view of the circus over at ICP while you stem up this beauty! Just enough spice and exposure to make it exciting. My partner and I used a mix of legs/back chimney moves as well as stemming. Ideal rack: .3, .4 (2), .5 (2), .75 (2), 2, 3, nuts, alpine draws. We did it in two pitches, but it would be fine in a single push. There are bolts at the first belay, so don't bother with the big gear. Nov 12, 2017
John Braun
Hendersonville, NC
 
John Braun   Hendersonville, NC
 
MAN this is a fun route! Just enough spice to keep things interesting. Picture a MUCH more heady version of the Stolen Chimney or the Molar Tower. I thought the crux was traversing from the first crack above the chimney belay to the second crack, but the moves to the bolt also gave me pause. If it feels like a really hard face climb, you're not stemming enough! The second time I climbed it, I stemmed and chimneyed much more and found it much easier. Dec 1, 2011
paul bucher
moab, utah
paul bucher   moab, utah
route finding was a small issue. i tended to want to go to the high point then up. don,t do that. it,s up from the chains at the top of pitch 1 on the main wall. the crack peters down to nothing and you really gota lean back to see the bolt. a bit run to the bolt and a bit run after that. i did manage an acceptable .5 cami in a horizontal after the bolt but that created a lot of drag. stellar route. the crux seemed to be the run move or two to the bolt. May 9, 2010
Wild stemming problem...a cool pitch.

I made the mistake of continuing deep into the chimney, over several chockstones, before realizing this was a dead-end. The huge wad of lowering slings on the final chockstone showed I wasn't the first! Follow the first obvious crack system on the right wall when you enter the main chimney.

I thought I'd reached another dead end when the cracks petered out and the wall steepened dramatically. You have to crane your neck way back to see the bolt (up and right on the same wall as the crack system). The climbing away from the crack isn't too hard, but the footholds are a bit gritty and a fall before the bolt would be ugly. Nov 21, 2008
I have climbed this route twice and both times I have done it in one pitch. The rope drag as I recall was not that bad, and I can’t imagine the belay in the chimney is all that fun. But I did not place much gear getting into the chimney and put runners on everything. Whatever you end up doing, it’ll be fun. This is a great route, even though it's very questionable on tower status. Oct 31, 2006