Type: Trad, Sport, 165 ft
FA: Jeff Achey, Ed Webster
Page Views: 6,628 total · 32/month
Shared By: Mike Sofranko on Nov 3, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


Face climbing in the desert! Watch out!

This is the leftmost detached tower in the Bridger Jack group. Kind of looks like a thumb, has a twin called Sparkling Touch just to the right. The trail along the bottom of Bridger Jack is obvious - go all the way left. The route starts in the obvious wide crack that leads to the left arete of Thumbelina. We belayed below the third class leading to this wide crack, but whatever works best for you. If you have a 50M rope, you probably want to get right up to the crack to belay.

The route is very obvious - follow the arete and bolts to the summit. The initial wide crack goes at 5.6ish, but the face to the right is climbable as well. As the leader I felt more secure wedged in the crack. The route has many rests and several bouldery cruxes. Two cruxes in particular will probably get your attention. The lower crux (10+/11-) was slightly burly but had positive holds and a nice new bolt just below. The upper crux is the business. Most people describe it as quite desperate. Personally, I describe it as A0, but my partner got it without a slip. This crux is at the last two bolts - one of which is bomber. Once past this, head left then up right to the final mantle onto the summit, or step right to the obvious steep crack and follow that to the summit mantle. If taking the steep crack, maybe include an extra hand sized piece or two in the rack.

Soft and precise shoes will undoubtedly help the struggle. Good luck.


1 each cams blue TCU to #3 Camalot, 1 set nuts, 8 2 foot runners, 8 QDs


Double rope rap off summit.
The crux of the route is fairly desperate and the hangers on the two bolts inspire little confidence. Clipping the second bolt at the crux section is extremely balancey. I thought it was a pretty tough call whether to clip in the rope or to actually grab the draw. Stick in there because the climbing eases off pretty quickly.

Double rope rap but stand well back from the tower for the pull as the crack at the top of the formation is a definite rope snagger. Jul 29, 2002
Stan Pitcher
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
If you do the 5.9 handcrack finish (which is great), be careful using the flake just before it - its quite loose. Bring your slabbing shoes! Nov 7, 2002
Scotty Nelson
Scotty Nelson   Boulder
Would recommend #00 (grey) TCU. May 1, 2006
If you're willing to pull on a bolt at the crux, I think this is the easiest of the BJ Spires.

More photos and a TR at piquaclimber.net/past/bridg… Jan 6, 2007
John D
John D  
Goes free, quite well. Exciting move though. Apr 4, 2007
Boulder, CO
claytown   Boulder, CO
take small nuts or a tiny cam to ease the runout. spicy desert slab arete is super classic! Nov 13, 2008
I did this route a loooooooong time ago. I remember it being outstandingly fun. But when we did it there were no established anchors on top. Which made getting off more of s concern than getting up. I have nightmares about the marginal mank we rapped off. Has there been permanent anchors established? Feb 9, 2009
JoergB   Germany
Abseil is ok. There are 3 bolts connected by a multitude of slings for that.
I put a summit register on the top of thumbelina. Oct 13, 2009
Ol Toby
Ol Toby   CA
I thought this impressive line was both technical and a bit spicy. The bottom crux felt harder than 10+ to me and the upper crux somehow managed to be thin, reachy and powerful all at once.

A thin (3 or 4 BD) nut or C3 would have been welcome to protect moves before the crux bolt.

The drilled angle anchor on top of the tower needs an upgrade. There is better rock below the summit kitty litter that would accept steel. Contrary to the comment above there are no bolts on top and one of the drilled angles is in poor rock. Mar 29, 2010
mtoensing   Boulder
I agree with using a #3 or #4 nut before the crux. I didn't expect as much exposure and hugging the arĂȘte was way awesome. The top anchor is fine and the tat has collected some newer looking spectra.

Overall super great climb Mar 7, 2011
Michael Ybarra
on the road
Michael Ybarra   on the road
Contrary to the topo in the IC guide, there are three bolts, not four in the second crux section. A drilled angle, a crack that takes a HB #6 nicely, a good new bolt (easy to clip), then a star drive.

If you're a chicken, like me, you can clip the top bolt, then retreat to the stance to figure out the moves. Although if you blow it, you'll be testing the star drive.

Tenuous, technical crux--but cool once you figure it out. Apr 5, 2012
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
You don't need really much gear. Bring the smallest TCUs...and do the right 5.9 finish. So good!

Anyone else do the mantel straight to the anchor? I'm guessing people traverse around left and top out. I did the other mantel. I had a big foothold break. Almost whipped. That would've been bad. Oct 26, 2015
Big Ears
  5.11b/c PG13
Big Ears  
  5.11b/c PG13
Super fun, techie burliness. Felt way more exposed than i expected. One of those routes where as you are climbing you are wishing for more bolts, but afterwards you realize its perfect. First climb ever in TC Pros and they performed as expected! Mar 12, 2016
two chains
Fucken Zion
two chains   Fucken Zion
No way is this .11a or even .11+ so you think this move is harder then the opening slab moves on County Club in Bocan(11+) Naaawwww naw way! One balency and thoughful slab/arete move and game over. Remember.... Use the arete and mantel the top out!!!! Bad ass climb!! Out dated drilled angles/cords for top/rapp anchors.... Hauling up a botche would be easy... Any suggestions for replacing them? IMO 3 (longer the better)5"-6"x 1/2" ss power wedges? With some equalized chain. I also have no problem replacing them come spring.
-lil wayne & 2chains Dec 22, 2016