[Hide Comment] This is my favorite tower in Castle Valley so far. The first pitch felt awfully hard to me, but it was probably because I was tired from carrying a large rock in my pack up the approach. Very unique climb. Sep 27, 2001

[Hide Comment] Kor did this FA the day after doing the Kor-Ingalls on Castleton. The Carters were newly married. Oct 30, 2001

[Hide Comment] Great climb and summit, and the summit register is entertaining reading.

I don't have much to offer in the route description but I can give great rack beta. With one #4 big bro (combined with the bolt, pin and chock stones) this was pretty protected, and if a person could beg, steal or borrow three #4's, you could sew pitch one up up. The rest of the rack would be fine with a set of camalots from #3 down, with doubles in 1, .75, .5 and .4, and a handful of medium stoppers. A couple small cams could ease mental problems, but would they hold?

The third pitch eats up slings, not only for the bolt ladder, but also because the pitch wanders left, up and then back right. You really need a sling per piece, and then a couple extra for aiding the bolt ladder if you can't climb 5.11 face in the desert and are under 6 feet tall. We had 9 slings, and would have been happier with 12.

For rapping, you almost need two ropes (50 or 60M are fine). The first rap would be a scary ordeal with one rope-it may or may not barely reach. Two ropes are mandatory from the top of pitch one to the ground.

Cheers, Frank May 1, 2002

[Hide Comment] In my opinion you can leave the #6 friend in the car. A #4 Big Bro and some nuts are the only gear that will protect the hard climbing. One rack of cams for the second and fourth pitches are plenty. There is a new rappel on the north side. One rope should get you down, but that's untested advice. Sep 23, 2002

[Hide Comment] So there we are, daylight running out, storms rolling in and one pitch left. I come up to the belay, take the rack and head straight up the 5.8 finish. 10 feet later I find myself trying to climb 5.11d thinking it's 5.8 sandbag. To make a long desperate story short, If you chose to do the 5.11d finish directly above the third belay, starting with 10 feet of 5.8, you can no longer expect to see a three bolt ladder, just a two bolt ladder. If you would like to see the third bolt(top bolt_ it now sit in it's twisted state on my fireplace mantel. As bad as I feel about having to report a 40 year old bolt now gone, the entire pitch I thought someone sandbagged the rating, so I kept trying to free it. The bolt held a big fall before it fell out with one tap from my second. Oct 31, 2002

[Hide Comment] First and foremost: rapping off. You CAN NOT get off of the summit via the standard raps with a single 60M rope. It would be a very unpleasant downclimb from the ends to the anchors as well. A single 70M barely gets you to the next reasonable belay, at the top of the 2nd pitch. From the top of the first belay, a 70M hits the ground if you are willing to rap off of the end of your rope 5' to the ground. We took the 70M up and tested that and succeeded. I grabbed the rope above the belay device, rapped off of the unknotted ends and swung over a few feet uphill to a 2-foot drop to a flat boulder. When my partner came down, she tied a knot in one end so that we wouldn't "loose" the rope. I grabbed her by the feet and swung her over to a similar drop. A 60M would be no good. 2*50M would work fine too, and you'd have less rope piled at the belays than with 2 60M ropes. Take a 70M or twin 50M.

Second: Pro. I wanted more, but it wasn't going to happen. I took up a set and a half of cams up to a #5 Camalot. Try as I might have, the #5, #4.5, and both #4s were useless at best, and at worst, weighed me down and caught up in the chimney between by butt and the wall. I looked for a place to put them, but really they added nothing to the climb. I was suspicious that the other climbers here dissing the OW pro were just being 'tough guys.' Not so... After having done this I seriously recommend the following rack: a load of slings, 1 full set of nuts, a few small tricams (pink, red) a full set of cams from .3" to a 3.5" (#3-#3.5 Camalot). The #3.5 is only for backing up the shitty 3rd belay if you wanted to load it up, but a 1-1.5" cam, a #3 Camalot and a stopper could work too. Taking a second set of TCUs might help in a few places, but not much. You may consider doing a community service of taking up loads of webbing and a knife to replace the tattered and aging slings on the otherwise good chockstones found in the wide first pitch.

Third: Wind and the raps down. This climb is in a chimney system and then up an arete that funnel wind amazingly well. While the wind on 5/3/03 was a mere 40+ MPH, certain spots on the climb were so windy that our clothes flapped like flags in a storm, our helmets were nearly peeling off and it was at times impossible to open our eyes. Even shouting, we could not hear each other once more than 30' apart. Luckily this was on the way down, but unluckily the wind was so strong that while pulling our ropes from the summit, the wind whipped it dead horizontal and then around a corner and back over the summit. I had to take what rope we had left and start leading "micro-pitches" up the rock to gain rope and make each pitch larger- first to the big step across move (belayed off of the 2 old pins + 2 cam in a horizontal) then to belay #3, then to the top. The wind was nearly peeling me off of the rock and several times literally blew me around the 3rd pitch arete. Rapping again, I clipped both ropes above the climber to a sling on the manky traverse bolt so they didn't get whipped that high again until the rope was mostly pulled. On the bright side, I got on the summit twice...

The first pitch was fun if you like that sort of thing. My partner hated it. I thought it was OK. This is like the admission price, not the goal. The second pitch was more fun- kind of a wild chimney. The 3rd pitch and famous step-across didn't seem like they'd be that hard without gale-force winds. They are not the dreaded sandy sloper holds, but sharp, hard calcite edges and some good flakes.

I was dreading the idea of a 5.11a slope-fest on the arete, but that's not what it is. I didn't free the pitch (I didn't try at first) but did do quite a bit of it and thought is was not so bad. Getting slammed into the rock by wind, I was still able to hold on to most of it.

The webbing on the chocks in the first pitch is on its way to grim, although it is still so-so, I'd wager that most of it is of much-reduced strength. The 3rd belay is atrocious and needs a solid pro backup. Replacing the webbing on this would be a service, but the wind stopped me from reaching it at all on the way down. May 5, 2003

[Hide Comment] PS- in the "spooky" category is that part of this tower is swaying severely in the wind. It appeared to be the smaller buttress on the belay of the priest. While at belay #3 I looked back down towards the step-across tower and saw that there was about 12" of sway between the two- fixing the edge to a point on the ground with my eyes, it was clear that either the lower half, or the half I was on was swinging like a skyscraper. Yikes! May 5, 2003

[Hide Comment] The first pitch is the most physical climbing I have ever done. 3 #4 Bigbros does allow you to sew it up - I did. After that, on the first pitch, something smaller than a .5 Camalot would be perfect, then you just clip ratty old slings. A .75 Camalot protects an awkward move on to the belay ledge. I also agree that a single set of Camalots is all you need for the rest of the climb. I brought doubles and did not use them. Use a #3 to back up the 3rd belay. 2 double 60m raps drop you to the start. Awesome climb. Sep 29, 2003

[Hide Comment] More Pictures and a TR at

piquaclimber.net/past/thepr…

One thing that I found interesting is that the first/second ascents didn't climb the wide crack but the thin aid to the left. In Kor's book, Beyond the Vertical, there is a picture that shows them aiding to the left of the offwidth. Nov 17, 2003

[Hide Comment] The summit needs a new register (the one up there is used up).

Agreed that big cams are useless. Oct 15, 2004

[Hide Comment] We brought 1 set of aid ladders for P3 and my partner was still stretched out. I really wish we had a stick clip as some of the bolts were missing. I don't see how folks can pull this off using only slings and french free technique, they must be plenty tall.

We didn't bring any bros, and I don't think they would have helped anyway. Progress on P1 is measured in centimeters. Make the chica of the group lead this one as she is likely the only one to fit in the crack and get a good heel/toe. P2 is the most terrifying 5.6 you will ever encounter. You have to sack it up and not think too much about the two ancient pins that are your only pro for 60 feet until you gain the anchor.

All told, do not underestimate the difficulty of this route and start early. Hats off to Layton Kor, Fred Becky, and the Carters. Nov 8, 2004

[Hide Comment] Raps: We rapped the summit to top of Pitch 2, and from there to the bottom with 2 60m (we had to pull slightly harder as it runs over a small lip from the top of 2). Probably should have figured out Josh's method with one 60m or rapped off the back, but it wasn't too bad pulling and we didn't want to go back in the chimney to rap (super windy). Cheers! Apr 28, 2005

[Hide Comment] Last week, sitting on the Unforgiven belay ledge, I watched as the massive detached pillar visibly swayed back and forth in the wind as Tony mentioned. Mesmerizing and terrifying! I suppose if you can't make the stem, just wait for a gust of wind to shrink the gap a bit. Mar 25, 2007

[Hide Comment] Well, if that pillar broke off it sure would make the route harder. Good thing there is already another route up the tower. Mar 27, 2007

[Hide Comment] Climbed (most of) this one with J. Blumberg four years ago. I didn't comment on it at the time, probably because it took too long for the fear toxins to dissipate... Anyway. P1 absolutely worked me. P2 absolutely terrified me, even though Blumberg led it (she led P1 too). P3 actually was pretty fun, with the caveat that it cannot be done completely on aid anymore. Several bolts have rusted and fallen off, and the distance between the remaining, manky bolts requires a number of 5.8-5.9 free moves. However, it is very exposed and exciting, and almost makes the pain of P1 worth it. I don't know anything about P4 because it was dark when we finished P3, and we bailed. And yes, the beer tasted pretty damn good that night. Feb 11, 2008

[Hide Comment] Does everyone offwidth the first pitch until you can get into it?

I have lead it two or more times and have always layed it back. There is no grunting and it is surely way faster. There is a big in the rock that is a great transition foothold at the point where you want to enter the chimney. Also combine the first 2 pitches with a 60m so that you don't have to belay in the chimney. Finally a single set of cams to a #3 camalot is perfect. Just my beta.

Ben Feb 12, 2008

[Hide Comment] Between the bolt and drilled angle, you can get a small stopper or HB offset on the key handhold on the left wall. It was pretty damn bomber.

After the drilled angle, a #4 big bro would be extremely helpful.

Burly burly burly 1st pitch! Dec 7, 2008

[Hide Comment] I did this with Charlie Fowler in '86; we had every Camalot in existence at the time-all of the prototypes...nice rack! The crux was sheer terror, there were no bolts that were more than protruding, rusty pieces of junk; Charlie led that pitch; I passed the IQ test! Jan 27, 2009

[Hide Comment] The first two pitches were fun, but the #6 and #5 camalots were useless. We failed on pitch 3 as we had forgotten the small cams and the 3rd belay was only one crap bolt instead of the two promised by the guidebook. Oct 14, 2009

[Hide Comment] Stellar route! That step across and commitment to the crimps on the other side is really fun. Someone probably already mentioned this in the previous comments but a single 70m works great for this route. 3 raps, last one being off the back side then hike back around. If your 70 is trimmed at all you will be cutting it close. CL Oct 23, 2009

[Hide Comment] Did this route in Aug.. Bad Idea. Also, We placed a grand total of 4 draws and one cam in the first two pitches.. Talk about scary for my buddy (first desert tower). And, man, that variation on the last pitch is pretty tough (5.11ish) didn't know we were supposed to go around left. Got quite a tan after than one.
One more thing... what your rope on the last rappel in the chimney.. after a long tiring day we had the pleasure of prussicing up. Lots of constrictions to get the knot stuck. I'd suggest douple ropes (one being a 70 which we left after the first pitch) after your buddy goes down rappeling with the knot until you run out of cord Aug 27, 2010

[Hide Comment] In my opinion, unless you have big bros and know how to use them, this route should be R rated. This should not dissuade anyone from doing the tower however. While it is very run out most of it is in chimmneys and the problem is not that you will fall out it is that you will get stuck. The second pitch has little pro (couldnt place a big bro). Great tower and not as hard/scary as its made out to be. Oct 17, 2010

[Hide Comment] climbed the route in november and agree with the above poster. The first pitch has serious runouts and some real climbing in the 'no fall zone,' be sure to be very solid on 5.9 OW / squeeze.

That said, its a desert tower so maybe that is to be expected anyways. I highly recommended the route if you're comfortable with runouts at the grade. And leave most of the rack behind. a few finger to hand cams cover the few gear placements on the route - don't haul a heavy rack through the chimneys! Jan 27, 2013

[Hide Comment] Layback. Way easier. Jan 28, 2013

[Hide Comment] I went first on the last standard rap with what I later learned from my partner was a slightly less than 70m rope. To avoid the last 6ft+ drop I scrambled onto a narrow ledge (climber's left), which looked like it might go. From here you can downclimb or swing the rope over and easily rap the remainder as it is uphill from the normal rope fall line. Apr 14, 2013

[Hide Comment] A bit of history. Back around 1976 Mack Johnson and I (CC Tigers)climbed the thirteenth ascent of the Priest (at least according to the register). The original first pitch was a thin aid crack left of the honeymoon chimney led by Kor. We bagged the first (and free)ascent of the chimney pitch. I tried first but palm blisters from arm bars forced me down. Mack completed the chimney, which I was able to follow. We had no friends and one big bro. The bolt near the top of the chimney was added years later by some unknown climber. I came back about ten years ago and was able to lead the chimney. I was happy to clip that bolt. Apr 18, 2013

[Hide Comment] Just did this again. Good route when its warm out. I thought the crux was getting inside the chimney at the start. Love this summit! Apr 10, 2014

[Hide Comment] On the first pitch, yes big cams are useless. However if you do want some gear, green and blue big-bros work, as well as Valley Giants. It's good beta, as Ben Kiessel recommends to link the first and second pitches. Belaying in that chimney off a sketch anchor is not so much fun. Rapping Excommunication with a 70m is probably the best bet.

Classic summit register, placed by Ed Webster, with so many legends that have signed it, it feels like an honor to be up there. One of my favorite climbs in the desert! Nov 16, 2014

[Hide Comment] Wow. I have been wanting to climb the Honeymoon Chimney for a long time and over the past few years have planned to get on it several times, it just never worked out... until now. I fucking loved this climb, we did it in three pitches. I took more than just a single set of cams to combine the first two pitches and didn't place one. Lots of runners and I was actually able to get in two bomber red ball nuts. One in the crack on the left wall about 10ft off the ground and one in between the pin and star drive at the top of the chimney section. The transition from the chimney onto the face was unreal. Amazing summit and amazing register but it sure could use a new note book. The register is overfilled with people squeezing their names in where ever possible and consequently covering up some really classic entries that should be conserved. Just my two cents. Top three on the tower tier for me. Singles through #3, plenty o' slings and a couple ballnuts. Feb 17, 2015

[Hide Comment] P1: Bring many slings and QDs, you can place a nut behind the first chockstone you get to, but probably won't do crap. I lead with 1 Bigbro and a handful of slings. Combine with P2 for a beautiful combo. The 5.7 chimney has a drilled angle and a star drive, but they are not needed.

P3: The wild step across. First three pins/bolts are ancient and need replacing. You can continue to stem high enough to clip the first actual bolt if you are tall enough.

P4: Either head up the 11+ tips crack or continue around the corner for a nice easy summit finish

Rap the Northwest Face like others have suggested and be in awe of 5.13 tower sport climbing May 13, 2015

[Hide Comment] This climb was both harder than I expected and better protected than I expected. I thought the pitch 1 OW was substantially harder than the 5.9 OW on the third pitch of Kor-Ingalls. It was longer and had fewer face features to work with.

I think one big bro is probably adequate, depending on how much you trust the tat on the chockstones in the chimney (or are willing to replace the tat). As for where to place the big bro, I would either place it between the bolt and the drilled pin or 10-15 feet after the drilled pin. Once you are fully in the chimney, you are not really at risk of a big fall and you can use the chockstones for pro.

Before you fully enter the chimney, there is a small crack in a hold on the left face where other commenters have mentioned placing small stoppers or lowe balls. I placed a red lowe ball in this crack and (perhaps this is my own ineptness at placing lowe balls), but it popped out right after I climbed past it. Anyway, it did not seem very secure to me.

Bring lots of extendable slings! I linked pitches 1 and 2, and the rope drag was pretty bad when I reached the pitch 2 anchors. May 26, 2015

[Hide Comment] One more vote for a small rack. We used single set, 0.4 - 3 camalot, and could have gotten away with less in the small. Lots of chockstones. Also, first bolt is replaced and bomber.
Also, single rope rapping Excommunication was fast, easy, and straightforward. Oct 5, 2015

[Hide Comment] This route is way more casual than the previous comments allow you to believe. sure its hard off width, squeeze, and chimney but it is reasonably protected via several slung chockstones. if the slings weren't there you could place nuts on either side of them. The #4 big bro could be done without, in my opinion, as well, but if you must bring one, bring only 1 and place it after the ledge after the bolted crux. The pitch is 10b, link 1 and 2.

The chimney pitch is awesome and is very cruiser. If you believe pitch 1 is 5.9, this pitch is 5.6. protects well enough.

The .11 arete is short and sweet with good feet. If you climb 5.11 anywhere you can climb this.

Do yourself a favor and single rope rap Excommunication. Not only are the raps straight forward but you get to scope out that amazing route.

Great route and amazing summit. Mar 30, 2016

[Hide Comment] Re: Steve Johnson's comments from 2013:
We did Honeymoon Chimney in 1977, which may have been the 8th or 9th ascent. The P.1 offwidth chimney we rated 5.9+ I think. I remember tying off a chockstone. I guess I used one tube chock; there were no BigBros yet (not invented for 20 more years or so).
Interestingly, before Friends, desert offwidths were less threatening than casting off on a long parallel crack with only hexes. At least offwidths and squeezes were secure...just inhale.... Nov 19, 2016

[Hide Comment] The Honeymoon Chimney summit rap anchor has old webbing that is need of replacement / backup. A length of webbing of about 12 to 15 feet would do the job. Also, a pen would be nice for the summit register.

Great route . . . ! Apr 24, 2017

[Hide Comment] If you can climb 5.11 in the desert do yourself a favor and bring a small rack. .5-2 is all thats needed for the entire climb, and is all only used on the last pitch. 4 cams and 8 draws is just about all you need. Plenty of slung chocks on the OW and chimney pitch. This thing was a lot more mild than I was led to believe. Awesome climb that shouldn't be missed, if not just for thumbing through the register on top... May 7, 2017

[Hide Comment] This is a really fun route. I was intimidated by the first pitch but I found out that about 10 no more than 15 feet above the last pin is a chockstone with a bomber#10 nut. The climbing up to this point is really easy leibacking. Once inside the chimney it is easy and fun squeeze with chockstones every 6 feet or so and the chimney widens. Definitely don't need any big gear for this route. Just a small rack and lots of slings. I am psyched to do this route again. We combined this with Stardust Cowboy on Castleton and it made for a very fun adventurous day. Oct 23, 2017

[Hide Comment] Pitch 1- easy wide laybacking with no gear needed to a big ledge. More liebacking up to the first bolt, then punch it 10 more feet with a short section where the edge isn’t crisp which brings you to the nice ledge with the drilled piton. From here the difficulties end and it’s 10 more feet of crisp liebacking with good feet to another small ledge and rest where you can place a nut or cam
or sling the chockstone. You can squeeze inside here and while slung chockstones are available, they are unnecessary as you aren’t going anywhere. The business is between the two fixed pieces. Not after. Way less serious than I expected. Two large nuts were nice for the belay. If you want to link into pitch 2, don’t clip any gear in the chimney. I found the belay here comfy and sunny. No reason to not stop.
Pitch 2- fun chimney. Look up and right 20 feet from the belay for the drilled piton, then I got a nice small nut in towards the arete, then a worthless star drive. It’s all you get and all you need. Great feet.
Pitch 3- you’ll see at least 3 relics on this pitch. I found a .3 camalot was nice to have for the final finger crack before the belay. Two .4s or a .5/.4 combo is ideal for the gear belay. A single rusted,protruding star drive is your other option.
Pitch 4- fun crack. Placed 3 cams, .5,1,.3.
Gear: nuts, 2 .3s/.4s and singles to 1 camalot. Tons of qds, like 10. Not sure why so many others don’t recommend bringing cams smaller than .5 as they were critical for me Apr 14, 2018

[Hide Comment] A single rack from .3 to 3 with many slings and draws should acceptable for most if you are comfortable at the grade. A more conservative rack would add a VG or blue bro, and an extra .5 - 1 Camalot. However, you are never too high above descent pro when you are pulling cruxes on pitch 1. Save a #3 and .4 Camalot for the anchor on pitch 3. FYI there is a modern bolt protecting the step across but it is part way out and spins. Cheers! Nov 19, 2018

[Hide Comment] Ditch the #5 & #6 Camalots. The first ledge is huge and you can place a bomber nut in the wall about 10' up. Apart from #4 Big Bros or a VG9, don't bring anything larger than a #3 Camalot. Kneepads are nice to have on this pitch, maybe even for P2.

For the laziest and most comfortable anchor atop P1, go behind the highest set of chockstones, clip to a sling that you thread around the pinch, and sit down/stand there. The rope is easy to handle from there.

For P2, chimney up and right to reach the first piton (facing south, or with your back on the main tower). Continue up and right near the edge of the chimney to a lousy #2 Camalot placement or a better #0.4 placement (if using a C3). Follow the edge back up and left past a bolt before reaching more trad gear opportunities near the top.

For P3, some bolts are very far apart, so if aiding you will either need to top step in your aiders, assisted by sidepulling the arete, or bring a short stick clip. The final bolt is still far below the ledge, so you either need to do an awkward free mantle move, or bring a hook. Place a #2 right behind this to protect the second and allow them to gracefully follow if they are aiding on TR.

P4 is very fun, straightforward, and well-protected (place/bump your first cam high for the second). The climb around the edge is cl. 3, although exposed.

Original summit register has been taken to Moab Desert Adventures for safekeeping. Apr 4, 2019

[Hide Comment] A #6 just isn't going to fit. We used a completely tipped out Merlin 8 and were able to ride it up to the chockstones. The bolt and pin on p1 are great. I highly suggest linking p1 and p2 so you end up on the ledge and belay off the Metolius rap hangers. Knee pads made this pitch much more enjoyable. The rope drag is non-existent if you refrain from clipping the chockstones further back up the chimney, opting instead to run it out to the stellar bolt. I placed a .3 upside down in a small crack near the edge of the chimney; a totem or c3 might have been able to be placed with a downward pull instead. There's a .4 crack just 3' higher, for what it's worth.

We also linked p3+p4. It would have been nice to have another set of finger cams for this bit and avoid clipping the janky homemade hardware. If you don't place the #2 for your follower after the bolt ladder, you're a sadist.

2024 update: bring a #7
Rack used: single .3-3, Merlin 8, 10 alpines, 1 double length
Suggested rack: 0.3-0.5 (2), 0.75-2, 7 (1), alpines (10), double length (1) Aug 12, 2019

[Hide Comment] P2 chimney protects nicely with a #21 Camalot.

youtu.be/wGUPFyrQGM0 Apr 1, 2020

[Hide Comment] Hot take: leave the big gear at home, this tower can be climbed with 5 cams and some runners.
The wide crux on p1 is well protected by a bolt and drilled pin, and there is fixed tat on every chock in the chimney. Link p1 and p2. Place a hand size before and after the crazy step-over bolt ladder on pitch 3 and build a belay with a couple finger sizes, or just link it to the summit. Oct 12, 2020

[Hide Comment] i would agree with most of the other comments on here about leaving big gear at home. Brought up to a 3 and didn't even use them. Can be linked with 1&2, then pitches 3 and 4. First and second pitch are the most run out, just do a hero's lieback the whole way and save yourself the hassle of squeezing in too early. Not too much protection but you get it where you need it with some slung chalkstones. the whole climb is a wild ride, and pitch 3 really got me going. the photos don't do that arete climb the justice it deserves, as leaving the safety of that block was pretty terrifying. 4th pitch was solid, but glassy holds and another heros lieback to finish. 5 STAR!!!!!! Dec 3, 2021

[Hide Comment] I just recently came across this route here and it brought a big smile to my face. I went there 3 times with 3 different partners before getting it, but only after getting the beta from Fred. He told me that none of them were brave enough to do the the first pitch moves as all their bongs and wooden wedges were too small, so Kor jumped on it and he went up the thin nailing crack to the left high enough to swing over into the wideness, which then narrows down at that point.
I did the same thing with tiny RPs and once the short pendulum was complete, it was considerably more cruiser.

What a great route. Nowadays, I am sure the super big BD Camalots make it a cruise:)!! Dec 12, 2022

[Hide Comment] A BD #8 takes all of the sting out of the first pitch if you're so inclined. Apr 3, 2023

[Hide Comment] P1: If you bring a #7 you can essentially top rope up to the first bolt and the drilled piton. You have to leave the #7 behind at the drilled piton and climb 20'+ above it with no pro on 5.8+ OW and lay-backing. A fall from the lay-back at the top of this stretch may land you on the ledge, I think warranting this an r/x rating. This pitch would be very safe if you add in a #8 or blue big bro. Apr 17, 2023

[Hide Comment] The first pitch is great fun. I didn't have anything bigger than #4 and it was a little unchill but felt safe since i just squeeze chimney the whole pitch Nov 21, 2023

[Hide Comment] 70m gets you in 4 raps over Excommunication. May need fresh cord on initial summit anchor, afterwards all is all metal. You can skip the first anchor you'll see a short distance below the summit climbers right and keep going down to the ledge with good hardware. Apr 17, 2025