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Routes in Lillipad Boulder

Blake's Sloper V4 6B
Frogonius V4 6B
Frogs V6 7A
Hogs V6 7A
Lees Warm Up V1 5
Polywogs V6 7A
Type: Boulder
FA: Greg Parker
Page Views: 34 total, 0/month
Shared By: Greg Parker on Jun 17, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Description

On the far right side of the boulder there is a smaller boulder that almost touches the lilypad. Behind this small boulder is a good rail. Start this problem by sitting down on the far left side of the rail, traverse right on the rail, squeezing between the problem you're climbing and the pointed rock at your back. When you reach the right side of the rail, reach up to a horrible sloper and top out. Hogs is a great problem that is only marred by the stupid small boulder I keep mentioning.

Protection

Pad - to protect the pointed rock in your back

Photos

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Dan Dewell  
 
No, Greg. You are not retarded. You are retardedly strong, though. You just don't realize how strong you are, Greg. There's nothing wrong with that. Glad you enjoyed the climbing. Come back more often!

Jan 3, 2004
Greg Parker
Cardiff, CA
 
Greg Parker   Cardiff, CA  
 
Maybe I was getting carried away. Maybe it was just because I was so psyched to be climbing up there again. Maybe the moon was just so that the gravity was less that day. Maybe I'm retarded. Jan 2, 2004
Dan Dewell  
 
V4? Are you serious? That's comical. Jan 1, 2004
Greg Parker
Cardiff, CA
 
Greg Parker   Cardiff, CA  
 
I think I called it V4 after I did it. It's not really a combination of two v7's. It skips the hardest parts of two v7's and you get to use the bad holds in their best positions. HOWEVER, I think it is the best line of the three. Super fun. Jan 1, 2004
Dan Dewell  
 
Blake's problem--a combination of two V7s--is called "Pollyhogs." It's a good problem. But, V5? That's just plain ridiculous. If that's V5, then we need to regrade ALL the V5s on Baldy. Jan 1, 2004
The best version of this problem is Blake's new one. I can't remember the name right now, but Greg and I did it the other day and it was good. It stays left and does and excellent job of avoiding the pointy boulder to the right. Greg and I felt V5. Good job Blake. Dec 31, 2003
Greg Parker
Cardiff, CA
 
Greg Parker   Cardiff, CA  
 
I actually reach up left hand to a small little crimp to the left of the sloper, then slap the big sloper with your right hand, then go to the top. Jun 19, 2003
Dan Dewell  
 
Are you reaching up with your left hand to the obvious slopers or right hand to something else? Jun 18, 2003