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Routes in Sharks Fin

Captain Hook T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Shark Attack S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Shark Bait S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shark's Breath S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spice Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Bob Archbold 2001
Page Views: 2,380 total · 12/month
Shared By: Zac Hester on Jun 22, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Check NPS for Closures Details

Description [Edit]

Shark Bait is a relatively recent addition (within the last year or two). The route is the bolt line just left of Shark's Breath (both routes share the same last bolt). Climb the fins and jugs on the bottom half to the light-colored headwall. Pull the two crux moves on the smooth face to the top of the arete and the anchors will be on your left.

This is a great climb for sport climbers leading at 5.7 who are ready to take it up a notch. The two crux moves are protected well and a lead fall would be nice and clean.

Protection [Edit]

If anything, this route is over protected. There are 13 bolts and a set of chain anchors at the top for belaying/rappelling. The bottom half of the climb is simple enough to skip all the bolts until you hit the headwall (which helps with the rope drag towards the top).

Photos

Does anyone know what is the bolted route just to the left (West?) of Shark Bait? (They share anchors)

Arik Jan 25, 2004
Andy Busse
Rapid City, SD
Andy Busse   Rapid City, SD
AC, I beleive that is an Archbold route. Feb 4, 2004
The route to the left of "Shark Bait" is "Shark Attack" 11a Feb 8, 2004
It's more like 10c Feb 8, 2004
Zac Hester  
 
To DakotaToni:

Sorry to disagree but...

Captain Hook is a great climb, but this is not the one I have described here. I've done Captain Hook--it's up the gully to the left of Shark's Fin and summits a different formation entirely. This is on the same formation as Shark's Breath (5.7) and Shark Attack (5.hard). It's newer than the Mike Lewis guide book (in which Captain Hook appears). Aug 11, 2004
There is a route on the far left side of Shark's Fin, not Bait or Breath. Anyone know what it is? The first bolt is just off the ground, it is very well bolted and looks maybe 5.6 for the first 6 bolts. Jul 12, 2007
Paul Huebner
Portage, WI
  5.8
Paul Huebner   Portage, WI
  5.8
When you study the nicely bolted route just left of Shark Bait, while rapping down from the anchors for Shark's Breath and Shark Bait it looks like the crux section is getting up into and up through the slightly overhung and gullied yellow rock band (solid 5.8 or 5.9?). Someone said that it's listed in a new book I don't have. Jul 16, 2015

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