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Shark Bait

5.8, Sport, 90 ft,  Avg: 2.9 from 70 votes
FA: Bob Archbold 2001
S Dakota > Needles Of Rush… > Mt Rushmore Nat… > S Seas > Sharks Fin
Access Issue: Check NPS for Closures Details

Description

Shark Bait is a relatively recent addition (within the last year or two). The route is the bolt line just left of Shark's Breath (both routes share the same last bolt). Climb the fins and jugs on the bottom half to the light-colored headwall. Pull the two crux moves on the smooth face to the top of the arete and the anchors will be on your left.

This is a great climb for sport climbers leading at 5.7 who are ready to take it up a notch. The two crux moves are protected well and a lead fall would be nice and clean.

Protection

If anything, this route is over protected. There are 13 bolts and a set of chain anchors at the top for belaying/rappelling. The bottom half of the climb is simple enough to skip all the bolts until you hit the headwall (which helps with the rope drag towards the top).

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Compilation of my second attempt on Shark Bait, complete this time
[Hide Photo] Compilation of my second attempt on Shark Bait, complete this time
Compilation of me working the first 3/4 of Shark Bait
[Hide Photo] Compilation of me working the first 3/4 of Shark Bait
Brenda at the crux of Shark Bait
[Hide Photo] Brenda at the crux of Shark Bait
Paul Huebner heading up to 5th bolt on Shark Bait.
[Hide Photo] Paul Huebner heading up to 5th bolt on Shark Bait.
Shark Bait
[Hide Photo] Shark Bait

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Does anyone know what is the bolted route just to the left (West?) of Shark Bait? (They share anchors)

Arik Jan 25, 2004
Andy Busse
Rapid City, SD
[Hide Comment] AC, I beleive that is an Archbold route. Feb 4, 2004
[Hide Comment] The route to the left of "Shark Bait" is "Shark Attack" 11a Feb 8, 2004
[Hide Comment] It's more like 10c Feb 8, 2004
Zac Hester
  5.8
[Hide Comment] To DakotaToni:

Sorry to disagree but...

Captain Hook is a great climb, but this is not the one I have described here. I've done Captain Hook--it's up the gully to the left of Shark's Fin and summits a different formation entirely. This is on the same formation as Shark's Breath (5.7) and Shark Attack (5.hard). It's newer than the Mike Lewis guide book (in which Captain Hook appears). Aug 11, 2004
[Hide Comment] There is a route on the far left side of Shark's Fin, not Bait or Breath. Anyone know what it is? The first bolt is just off the ground, it is very well bolted and looks maybe 5.6 for the first 6 bolts. Jul 12, 2007
Paul Huebner
Portage, WI
  5.8
[Hide Comment] When you study the nicely bolted route just left of Shark Bait, while rapping down from the anchors for Shark's Breath and Shark Bait it looks like the crux section is getting up into and up through the slightly overhung and gullied yellow rock band (solid 5.8 or 5.9?). Someone said that it's listed in a new book I don't have. Jul 16, 2015