Avg: 3.8 from 131 votes
Routes in Tricouni Nail/Cerberus
|Cerberus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|East Face Rotert/Fowler Route T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R|
|Type:||Trad, 70 ft|
|Page Views:||10,188 total, 54/month|
|Shared By:||Andrew Gram on Jul 2, 2002|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty|
DescriptionThis is one of the best routes in the Needles, and is a must do for any climber. The climbing is fantastic, the summit is very cool, and the simulrap is exhilarating.
From the gully between Tricouni Nail and Queen Pin, look for a few old fixed pins on a steep face. Climb past the drilled pins to a good stance on a shoulder. Sling the shoulder and move up and left towards a ring bolt, placing a medium stopper in a seam along the way to avoid a groudfall. Traverse right at the ringbolt to another bolt, and then fire for the top on good crystals.
The route is only half over on top. Belay the follower from the top. To rappel, toss one end of the rope off either side with the rope laying in between two of the horns. Take a deep breath, and make a counterweight rappel off opposite ends of the spire. The simulrappel or Needles rappel is pretty commonly used to descend from summits with no anhors in the Needles area, and this is one summit that seems to have been designed for this technique.