Type: Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Royal Robbins
Page Views: 12,156 total · 55/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Jul 2, 2002
Admins: Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

This is one of the best routes in the Needles, and is a must do for any climber. The climbing is fantastic, the summit is very cool, and the simulrap is exhilarating.

From the gully between Tricouni Nail and Queen Pin, look for a few old fixed pins on a steep face. Climb past the drilled pins to a good stance on a shoulder. Sling the shoulder and move up and left towards a ring bolt, placing a medium stopper in a seam along the way to avoid a groudfall. Traverse right at the ringbolt to another bolt, and then fire for the top on good crystals.

The route is only half over on top. Belay the follower from the top. To rappel, toss one end of the rope off either side with the rope laying in between two of the horns. Take a deep breath, and make a counterweight rappel off opposite ends of the spire. The simulrappel or Needles rappel is pretty commonly used to descend from summits with no anhors in the Needles area, and this is one summit that seems to have been designed for this technique.

Protection

Quickdraws for bolts and pins, long runner for a flake, medium stoppers.

Photos