Gokul, tired but in the home stretch

All Locations > California > Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > Valley S Side > P. Cathedral Area > 6. Middle Cathe… > E Buttress (5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A0)

Gokul, tired but in the home stretch

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Drew on the route.

Descent conditions as of April 08

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Doug Hemken

Jun 13, 2014

“Gokul, tired but in the home stretch”

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Nearby Photos

Sept 2017 rockfall on El Cap from Middle Cathedral

Quinn Miller on the 10th pitch.

Great views.

Stainless steel bends but is hard to break! Replaced bent second bolt on "50 Crowded variation" on right; unbent replacement hanger on left.
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The bent bolt / hanger was probably hit by a rock.

Taken from El Cap Meadow on 5/9/21

Pitch 5. This is the crux pitch of the route, face climbing on tiny edges. It is tightly bolted. Done free, it is 10c. As a bolt ladder, it is 5.9 A0. When the FA'ers put up this nine-bolt ladder in 1954 it was the longest bolt ladder in the country.

Taken from El Cap Meadow on 5/9/21

The first rappel on a very long descent

In the Original Route's chimney. People on the now standard variation could hear us moaning and yelling obscenities for the hour or so it took us to get up this thing

A 17 year old TrundleBum following one of the upper "flared groove" pitches, Middle Cathedral, East Buttress.<br>
(what is this? action, personal or I guess it could even be 'Historic')

Route Overlay East Buttress of Middle Cathedral.

Start of the East Face rappel route.

Middle Cathedral approach trails - East Buttress, Kor-Beck, Central Pillar of Frenzy
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original photo from xRez.com

Lead climber from a party ahead of us free climbing the 10c section.

Topo of the new rap route on EBMC

Brendan about to lead ladder pitch

David belaying with the sun rising in the background.

Eric-3rd 5.9 awk pitch from the 'Critical Path' alternate start. The whole thing was covered in moss but was pre-tyy sweet. the 10c thin pitch was filled with moss. but 1st pitch was sick consult the sloan guide and look at the east buttress topo for info

The view from the belay ledge below the bolt ladder/crux pitch.

Gary Reno near the summit!

Gokul, crux pitch

View from the top, from the first few steps on the catwalk before going up the 4th class gully.

Randy with awesome exposure on one of the final pitches

Looking down pitch 2 if I remember correctly.

east butt mid cathedral

What the experience actually looks like: three parties sharing a belay baking in the sun.

Looking up from the big ledge at the start of the route.

that's me on the east buttress circa 1985

One of the last pitches

Jesse

Always great exposure throughout the climb with great views

Having Fun on East Buttress

Gokul, p4

Looking down at the 5th pitch variation going straight up over the roof. I didn't go left to the bolt ladder. Ooops. Scary.

Bolt ladder

Chuck on one of the rappels on the descent.

Looking down pitch 1.

Pitch 10. Steep groove.

The top of the route.

Pitch 7: Fun 5.7 corner climbing.

Descent gully. A few rappels are involved.

Just before the crux section

Drew on the route.

Gokul, tired but in the home stretch

Descent conditions as of April 08

P10 (our P7). Head left shortly after you reach the small tree above to get to new rap route.

Pitch 4: More 5.7 fun.

San Luis Obispo based climber pulling the crux, 50 Crowded variation 5/7/2016

east buttress of middle cathedral

Pitch 6 is a face traverse into the crack systems. Protection is sparse but there are a couple of pitons and medium cam (green, yellow, and red aliens) placements.

View of El Cap from the base of the first pitch. Worth the stroll up even if you're not doing the climb.

The start of the descent gully.