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| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 38.60781, -109.67293 |
| FA: | Keith Reynolds, Courtney Scales, Alan Stephenson, Mack haster, John Weinberg |
| Page Views: | 2,579 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Sam Lightner, Jr. on Mar 21, 2007 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
The route climbs the crack and dihedral that goes up from the Gemini Bridges Road. Its the northwest face. For some reason this route gets no stars in Bjornstads DRII... I belive it deserves at least a couple as the climbing is interesting. The rock on the last pitch is unique... pockets and edges.
P1. Climb a slab to a pod, then follow a tight crack, mostly fingers, for about 100 feet to a ledge and two bolts. 5.10 with some dirty slab moves up high. Mostly thin gear and hands
P2. Go up through the wide crack in the bulge using fingers, hands, and the odd chimney move... it looks wider than it climbs. The crack lessens in angle, then goes right to a ledge with some funky face moves. Mostly hands size pieces. 5.10+
P3. You might want to break this short pitch into two as it circles the Birds head. Go up on good horizontals to a bolt. Make some face moves on decent rock to a ledge, then follow that right to the back of the birds head. Its on this ledge that you might want set up a belay because of rope drag. You will need wide stuff. Follow the ledge around to the back of the head and climb (little spicey) on pockets and edges to the summit. Get gear in the pockets (it might hold). The pitch is 5.10-.
Rap from the summit to the top of 2, then from there to the ground with 2 60's. The summit anchor leaves a bit to be desired. A nice 1/2 inch bolt and some chain would do wonders for it (I can provide this to you).
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