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Sharp End??

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Live Perched · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 21

‘The sharp end’ is a term I first heard in a climbing context.  I assumed it first described a leader nailing up a route and is so good people continued its use once clean techniques became the norm for trad climbers.

This year during the Tour De France, commentators are using ‘the sharp end’ interchangeably with ‘tip of the spear’ to describe attackers leading a breakaway.  Sharp end is quite suitable.

Out of curiosity, does anyone know how or when the climbing community adopted or originated ‘the sharp end’ descriptor?  

Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 470

I did not start climbing until 81 but I don't seem to remember a time we did not refer to the leader  as being on the sharp end? 

Todd R · · Vansion · Joined May 2014 · Points: 61

OED has first recorded usage circa the 1940’s in a military context - meaning the most exposed position. Makes sense climbers adopted it as plenty of early strong climbers were ex military and army folks. 

Frank Stein · · Picayune, MS · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 205

“Sharp end of the spear”

Live Perched · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 21
Todd R wrote:

OED has first recorded usage circa the 1940’s in a military context - meaning the most exposed position. Makes sense climbers adopted it as plenty of early strong climbers were ex military and army folks. 

In this case, the OED may not be complete.  The 1943 citation relates to the bow a ship.  The 1973 citation is more aligned with how climbers use sharp end.  Is it possible climbers were saying sharp end before 1973.  

Kevinmurray · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 0

Always been used to refer to the leader and of course the person following is on the dull end of the rope. 

Cherokee Nunes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 0

Right. Sharp end of the sword, mates. Term has been around since forever. American climbers imported it from the U.K probably in the 60s, maybe Robbins brought it back with "munge."

Live Perched · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 21

Sorry, I thought I posted this previously.  The OED historical citations of ‘sharp end.’

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