clipping is hard
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tried "lead" for the first time today, used auto belay as backup, just wanted to see what is was like. belaying lead is easy, but clipping is so hard! finding the perfect position without pumping out and actually clipping is so tough. |
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It sounds like your head game is holding you back more than your finger strength. Most likely the prospect of gate flutter is keeping you from being able to commit to the move fully. |
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keep on practicing, Elie! wild times on MP when actual humans are impersonating bots |
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Ray Murphy wrote: do i really sound like a bot |
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apogee wrote: what’s the meaning of this image i always see it |
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Keep at it Elie and you will get the hang of it. Practice clipping draws on the ground with either hand and either side of the body (and draws facing both directions) until you can clip quickly and efficiently. One thing that happens to me is I’ll feel desperate and want to clip the next draw RIGHT NOW because I don’t want a long fall, so I end up clipping from a very uncomfortable or strenuous stance… then, after I have clipped, I make the next move and say, “Damn, I should have clipped from here—it’s so much more casual!” Not always, but it is a not infrequent occurrence. So… keep at it! Oh, and I was taught that the general rule is to clip the draw when that draw is roughly somewhere around waist or chest height, but I’ll often break that rule and clip way above my head if I am in a secure stance. Obviously, if you miss the clip and fall in this situation you have a lot of extra rope out and your fall will be longer, so consider that (especially at the second and third bolts!). |
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Elie G wrote: You see a turtle lying helpless on its back. What do you do? |
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Mark E Dixon wrote: turn it into a souvenir :) kidding |
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Elie G wrote: yeah, kind of. most new accounts on mp forums are deemed a bot until proven otherwise. adding a profile picture totally helps in this turing test. |
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Lol first think I do at this point is check if they are a bot.. this one is suspicious. I mean I guess go climb outdoors, make a to do list at least lol, buy some shit from other dirt bags. Anyways got three new trad leads in today. 5.6, 5.7, and 5.8. It's so interesting how the style of climbing changes when your following and cleaning the exact same route Freaking love the thrill of lead climbing out doors. |
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Make sure your belayer uses the correct color gri gri which corresponds to the holds on the route. The yellow fat cam grigri is specifically for bat hanging cramp hook routes and the red triple locker grigri is for undercling campus routes. |
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F r i t z wrote: This one time at camp 4 I heard a story where the rope whipped around, walked the cam straight to the back of the crack, undid two triple action lockers opposite and opposed, smacked a neighbouring free soloist on the behind, and wrapped around a branch and pulled out a 600 year old cedar. Ever since then I bring a blow torch and weld my lockers shut. The crag developers keep yelling at me but safety first bro. |
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Elie G wrote: That's called a "cigarette." It's like an analog version of a vape pen. It's a device that people utilized to ingest nicotine. Fortunately, now that Febreze has released the Boba-licious Hello Kitty Sour Patch Minors starter kit ("Now With 25% Less Red 40!") such barbaric paraphernalia has all but gone extinct. Nowadays the only people who partake in cigarettes (and the lesser known variant, cig-dihedrals) are sport climbers who grab dogbones and AL. But now that you've established that you're not a bot (because as my students' research papers this year have demonstrated, bots know how to use punctuation), here's a tip for clipping ... |
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The worst part is that this bot is from New Jersey. |
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There are several clipping techniques to choose from. For forehand clips, I prefer to put my thumb in the basket of the biner, then dump the rope with forefinger. For backhand clips, I put my forefinger in the basket, then dump the rope in with the thumb. I don't do that open-palm clipping. |
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You from Joisy? I’M from Joisy! What exit!? |
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Elie G wrote: If you haven't already figured it out, Her name is Rachel and she's a character from the movie Bladerunner. She's a replicant human (Nexus 7) that can mimic human emotion. |
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Botty McBotFace wrote: Inquiring minds would like to know who the human is behind Botty McBotFace. |