Trying to choose a system board for home. Anyone using Moonboards at less than 25*?

I'm in the planning stages of a home system board build in my yard. I'm pretty set on the 8x12 size, and I plan to make the angle adjustable.

I live in Moab, UT and have been climbing on and off for the last 15 years, less consistently the last 5. I'm mostly climbing locally, on vertical desert cracks and sport crags. Typically, I can flash .10+ off the couch, and if I'm climbing with some consistency, I'll project up to .12-. At the salt lake area gyms, I'm usually projecting up to V5/6 when I'm feeling strong. Finger/grip strength seems to usually be my weakness, even when I've been climbing regularly. I've never done any "training" beyond just bouldering for fun at the gym.

My partner is also interested in using the climbing wall, and she is a 5.10 top rope just for fun kind of climber.

The Tension TB2 seems like it would be the best fit for us. I've been on kilter boards a lot as well, and would love that as well, but they're both too far out of our budget.

I'm trying to decide between a 2024 Moonboard and a Grasshopper- both look to be under $4k with LEDs.

I've only been on a 2019 Moonboard at 45* , and that was not really my cup of tea. I tried it after bouldering on set problems for 2 hours, so I was pretty gassed. I just felt like it was too difficult and felt like I was going to injure myself on those crimps. Total opposite experience on a kilter board. I feel like that one is geared way more towards more moderate ability levels.

Finally to my question- has anyone consistently used a Moonboard under 25 degrees to make it easier? What was your experience? Between a lower angle and the friendlier 2024 holds, it seems like a viable option for us. (I don't care about the fact that a V4 at 10degrees on the moonboard is no longer a V4. I just want easy access to fun strength training.

Also- do any of the t nut patterns "overlap" for any of the boards I've mentioned? I know some have way more holds than others, but I couldn't find exact dimensions.

Thanks a lot for any input!

I would get the moonboard. It's been around forever and there are a lot of users and a huge database of problems. I've climbed on the 2019 moonboard at less than 25 and I think it's highly enjoyable. Most other system boards on the market curretly that aren't Moon, Kilter or Tension are likely going to be short-lived.

The T nut patterns are different for different boards, due to a number of factors, including: metric vs. imperial measurements, spacing preference etc etc.

For what it is worth, the 2019 moonboard holds are my personal favorite. They set a nice balance between fingery-ness, skin friendliness and mimicking of outdoor movement. 

Feel free to PM me if you have more questions. I've built a couple of home boards in the past and have used most of them.

You could gamble on the Decoy board for the savings.

If what you really want is 'access to fun strength training', I would suggest a non-branded spray wall. Then you can have hold selections that suit both you and your partner and permit a gentle warmup. Also plan to buy top quality padding. With the money you'll save from not buying LED kits and system holds, you could even put in two panels with different angles and have the best of both worlds.

If you have time and want to save money, build it yourself.  $4K sounds like a lot to me. You might want to price it out but my guess it'd be under $1000 to do it yourself.  It's not hard if you have basic skills and tools.

I would not put it outside unless you have no good location indoors. Even in Moab.  Cold holds stay cold giving you numb hands.  Cold holds collect condensation.  Hot holds stay hot.  Hardware rusts making it hard to adjust your holds and angle.  Pads and mattresses get wet, moldy, dirty, covered in your neighbors' dog hair, mice infested, etc.

Most "system holds" out there (I assume they are still made) allow you to rotate them from easier-to-harder, so you can rotate the holds instead of changing the angle of the board which simplifies construction. My board is fixed at 33 degrees.  You want some jugs for warming up (e.g. the Pusher blocks, below), some intermediate holds for your partner, and some harder holds for yourself.  Besides the Pusher blocks, all of the holds you see in the photo can be rotated.

You can make the footholds yourself out of oak or other hardwood 2x2 lumber.  Hardwood so it doesn't split.  Drill the holes first.