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Lead rope solo ropes

Original Post
Wiggle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2024 · Points: 0

Hi i found a dealing beal 9.5 jamma I use a grigri plus in top rope mode with chest harness and device inverted. Do you think a 9.5 would be OK to feed or too thick. Thanks 

Ricky Harline · · Angel's Camp, CA · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 147

Beal ropes are perfect for LRS because they're very stretchy. 9.5mm will work great with any grigri for LRS. I use a Beal Booster 9.7mm and am very happy with it, 9.5 should work very similarly. 

Cosmic Hotdog · · California · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 422

It should work, I use a 9.2mm though I've seen Brent Bargahn recommend using sub-9mm ropes for the best feeding. 

Per Brent, "Skinnier is generally better if you are in GriGri+ TR Mode, improving feeding and reducing weight of the rope on your harness. The slightly stretchier skinny ropes even make the rope solo falls more comfy as the rope comes tight against a rigid anchor. My go to cragging LRS rope is the 8.6mm Canary. For multipitching, I use the 8.9mm Swift Protect for its cut resistance. Derek even uses the 8.2mm Protect sheath half rope for moderate mileage - it’s cut resistant sheath tests as high as a standard 9.5mm lead line, but your Gri better be in TR mode!"

Source

Ricky Harline · · Angel's Camp, CA · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 147

Far be it from me to argue with Brent, he's far more knowledgeable and experienced than myself. But I just wanted to point out that I think his usage of very skinny ropes is actually relatively uncommon-- I think most people are using ropes in the size range that OP is talking about and they have good results.

Charles Vernon · · Colorado megalopolis · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 2,759

I use the same setup and found that my 9.5 fed fine for a long time but now as the rope is getting older there's a noticeable decline in feeding performance (relative to belaying a partner with the same rope). My other rope is an 8.5 which is awesome for long approaches, LRS or otherwise, but now I'm looking for a middle ground and probably getting a Joker (9.1) or similar. 

Cosmic Hotdog · · California · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 422
Ricky Harlinewrote:

Far be it from me to argue with Brent, he's far more knowledgeable and experienced than myself. But I just wanted to point out that I think his usage of very skinny ropes is actually relatively uncommon-- I think most people are using ropes in the size range that OP is talking about and they have good results.

Agreed! I think you're right that most of us are using 9+mm ropes for this. I'm hesitant to go skinnier because I have a Beal Opera 8.5mm for example, and that thing stretches like crazy. So while the catch would be super soft, I already know I'm probably taking oversized whips if I fall and I don't want to add to those distances via skinny rope elongation 

Kevin Stricker · · Evergreen, CO · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 1,330

I LRS about 50 days per year, and have been for a really long time.  I currently use 8.9 - Swift Protect for LRS with grigri plus inverted and held up.  I have been using sub 9mm ropes for LRS for the last 5 years or so.  I wouldn't go back to 9.0mm+ for a LRS specific rope unless it was for a big wall I planned to jug on follow.  If you are careful with re-directs a sub 9mm rope can last quite a while.

Wiggle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2024 · Points: 0

Thanks everyone saw the videos with Brent and Ryan at how not 2 and saw Brent ran 8.5 and 9.8 is too thick so didn't k ow where 9.5 on scale was thanks for all your help

Matt Carroll · · Van · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 272

I use an opera (8.5) and that works well for me. I got an 8.2 to play with this year for harder red points, but I haven't had a chance to test that yet. it's hard to beat the opera though, even with 60+ meters on my harness it still felt "light enough". 

Ricky Harline · · Angel's Camp, CA · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 147

Maybe everyone here is a badass and I'm a big chicken (a distinct possibility) but LRS is scary and dental floss ropes don't give me the warm fuzzies. If you're a chicken like me I would highly advise the 8.9 aramid rope from edelrid. Cut resistance of a much larger rope gives the warm fuzzies where other skinny ropes don't. 

Also it's a beast of a rope that is astonishingly durable. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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