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Setting up top rope on fixed anchors with two separate chains

Original Post
Tony Purmal · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2023 · Points: 0

I'm not sure if this belongs here or in the general climbing forum.  Apologies if this is the wrong one.

On my return to a local crag after a 10 year gap the fixed anchors (nice bolts) have had two chains added to them.  The chains are of different lengths even though the bolts are at the same height.  This is to facilitate setting up top ropes for climbs that go up one side of the formation to the bolts.  Is it OK to just put two locking biners (one at the end of each chain) and run the rope through the two biners for top roping.  There are no rings at the end of the chains just the last links of the chains.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

It's fine; you could also put the lockers through the bolt hangers.

Glowering · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 16

Beginners forum is probably the best place for this.

I would use two biners with one through a link not at the end of the chain to make it at the same height as the other one. As long as it fits thru the link. Make sure they are reversed and oppsosed. If they are reversed and opposed at the same height I woudnt worry about them not being lockers. In fact if a locker wouldn’t fit but a non locker would I’d prefer non lockers. But I what you described is fine too, it can just have a little more friction/binding. 

M Sprague · · New England · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 5,099
FrankPS wrote:

It's fine; you could also put the lockers through the bolt hangers.

using just a single biner on each hanger would likely twist the crap out of your rope and create extra vector force, as well as potential rope wear against the rock. I'm surprised you would recommend that Frank.

I'd go with what Glowering suggests, or just throw a draw on each hanger, with the bottom biners opposed. Your way is good too.

Ackley The Improved · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2020 · Points: 0
Tony Purmal wrote:

I'm not sure if this belongs here or in the general climbing forum.  Apologies if this is the wrong one.

On my return to a local crag after a 10 year gap the fixed anchors (nice bolts) have had two chains added to them.  The chains are of different lengths even though the bolts are at the same height.  This is to facilitate setting up top ropes for climbs that go up one side of the formation to the bolts.  Is it OK to just put two locking biners (one at the end of each chain) and run the rope through the two biners for top roping.  There are no rings at the end of the chains just the last links of the chains.

I like your method best.

TThurman · · Marietta OH · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 0

Warning: extreme thread drift…

Ackley, I dig the subtle nod towards the improved  wildcat cartridges… not a reloaded myself but wanted to acknowledge anyway. Cheers!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Fixed Hardware: Bolts & Anchors
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