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Fix-and-follow for the Nose

Original Post
Doug Leonard · · CA · Joined Jul 2021 · Points: 20

Does anyone have experience with using fix-and-follow techniques on the Nose? I think it could be a lot of fun and fairly efficient to TR solo some of the non-traversing moderate pitches like in the  stovelegs. Are there pitfalls to using this strategy on a bigwall beyond the normal things to watch out for with TR solo/fix-and-follow? 

Mark Hudon · · Reno, NV · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

Doesn’t seem like it would be a problem for a competent team. 

Patsy · · Merced · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 0

I saw an in a day team using that technique. The trailing rope didn’t seem to bother other parties too much. I think that would be the main issue. Will other parties get mad if you are dangling a rope all over them?

Adam Fleming · · AMGA Certified Rock Guide,… · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 497
Patsy wrote:

I saw an in a day team using that technique. The trailing rope didn’t seem to bother other parties too much. I think that would be the main issue. Will other parties get mad if you are dangling a rope all over them?

I mean, that's my standard big wall technique. With the traversing nature of walls, it's not on the way of anyone for very long. Factor in the common big wall updraft and I say you're good to go. 

I think I would only do this for the stove legs and pitches off Dolt, but I'm not a free-climbing uber crusher. I suppose the boot and a few other pitches area fun to free, but making the transition to or from ascenders seems like it would eat some time. The beauty of climbing is that you can do it your own way! 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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