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JTREE Recommendations for first timers

Original Post
adam felsen · · Northridge/Thousand Oaks, CA · Joined Oct 2023 · Points: 5

Hi yall. My friend and I are planning a trip to Jtree next week. We can both lead at least 5.8 and top rope 5.10. Any recommendations either on mountain project or in regard to books?

Thanks 

Adam

Bill Lawry · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,822

Maybe Vogel’s 1000 Classic Climbs? More routes than the guide with 90 trad climbs so that you’re not with everyone else focused on the same 90 5.9 and under classic routes.

Interested to hear what others think. I’m not a local or frequent flier. Just an annual regular. :)

Joseph bright · · Varies · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 0

I was there 2 weeks ago  and it was surprisingly not crazy busy…

We did dogleg, double cross, dappled mare, touch n go, spider, right ski track , and a few others on some slabs. All 5.7-5.9 Only waited in line for a minute on dappled mare I wanted to do roans way but the other party went there. In the end the traverse was so cool I am glad they went that way..

Have fun!

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

You might like the climbing to be found at “Rock Garden Valley” 

Good stuff to be found 

Have fun 

Drederek · · Olympia, WA · Joined Mar 2004 · Points: 315

If you get the urge to explore a little bit you should get on top of the south Astrodome. It’s class 2 maybe 3 up the south side. 

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

Like Bill said, get a guidebook. Use the star rating system to pick the classics.

Going to Joshua Tree without a guidebook is a sin.

Cosmic Hotdog · · California · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 452

This is the best book in my opinion

Rock Garden Valley is a good wall, as has been said. Trashcan Rock has a bunch of easier stuff to check out. The Thin Wall also has lots of options for you.

Just keep in mind that Jtree is pretty sandbagged so if you're leading 5.8 on gear elsewhere, maybe downgrade to 5.6 to make sure you're comfortable prior to jumping up grades. Have fun

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

Rock Garden Valley is a good rec, as is Lost Horse Wall.  Sail Away. The 5.7s and 5.8s in HVCG.  As mentioned above, keep in mind that ratings can feel stiff compared to other places. Mental Physics is terrific.  Out in the Wonderland, but the hike out is part of the appeal.  From the belay on the first pitch you have a terrific view of Mt. San Gorgonio, which is plastered in snow right now.  Just a wonderful setting.  

mountainhick · · Black Hawk, Franktown, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120
Ricky Harline · · Angel's Camp, CA · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 147

I'm a punter who just went to J tree for the first time. Thin Wall and Hemingway Buttress were pretty rad. 

Sean Marsh · · BirdsAren'tReal · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 10

Anacram 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern California
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