Steepest crack of every size

My friends and I were trying out a roof crack trainer at a local gym and talking about grades and what routes it bore resemblance to.

It's pretty well established (though I'm open to counter examples) that all roof cracks are 5.12 or up with perfect hands being 12- (separate reality for instance) and fists and thin hands being 12+/13- width and length depending. But beyond that we started to wonder what grade splitter .75 or .5 or #5 would be and if all the sizes have a real splitter roof crack that's actually been climbed. 

If not, what's the steepest tips crack? Or .3s? It seems like on the wider sizes the wide boys have demonstrated the possibility of basically everything from #4 to body bridges, but I'd still be curious for specific examples of each and what the grades look like. 

Figured some snow trapped bored trad climbers might have the answers I've been unable to Google

Thanks!

Eric

I don't think it is well established that all roof cracks are at least 5.12. More Monkey than Funky and Risk Brothers Roof come to mind as lower 5.11 roof cracks. Also, Separate Reality is probably only 10+ or 11- until the boulder problem at the end, so a perfect hand roof of that length would fall into one of those two grades imo.  

I believe that a few of the splitter bridge cracks happen to be between .75-1 size and they usually end up in the 13+ or 14- range from what I've seen. although length is probably the biggest factor in the grade as I would guess that a totally horizontal .75 crack could be as easy as 12- if it was only a move or two. 

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/119744626/milligram

This might have some data points for you.

phylp phylp wrote:

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/119744626/milligram

This might have some data points for you.

Isn’t the start also the crux of Gram Traverse? I guess it gets much, much worse, lol!

Squat is supposed to be 4s and 5s, and it's supposed to be pretty fair at 12b. Lucille is 6s and 7s, and it's somewhere around 12+/13-.

Trench Warfare is also 6s and 7s, and it's seen a bunch of repeats all claiming 12d.

Honestly, roof offwidths are a bit easier than just steep offwidths, since the sideways movement is easier than the upward progression. So what makes Century Crack harder than bellyful of bad berries is actually supposed to be the shear scale of the thing.

But this is all what I've soaked up playing on circus-trick offwidth boulder problems. I may be wildly off-base.

I think a perfect handcrack roof can be 5.10 or 5.11 depending on length.

Petsfed 00 wrote:

Honestly, roof offwidths are a bit easier than just steep offwidths, since the sideways movement is easier than the upward progression.

Roofs can definitely be much easier since you can just dangle and swing or shuffle sideways. Separate Reality would be much harder if it were 60 degrees overhanging instead of horizontal.

Austin Donisan wrote:

Roofs can definitely be much easier since you can just dangle and swing or shuffle sideways. Separate Reality would be much harder if it were 60 degrees overhanging instead of horizontal.

I wondered about this after building a home wall with a 50 degree crack machine.  I could only make a move or two, even on good hands, but I could stay in the crack for a bit.  The only time I've had a chance to try a totally horizontal hand crack it was easier to move but more exhausting since you can't distribute your weight as much.  

(edit) to add to the original question, I would think that "Stranger than Fiction," the Mason Earle route that Lor Sabourin and Pete Whittaker recently repeated, would be up there for steep routes in the .4-.75 range.  That appears to be what most of the upper route consisted of.   

Paul L wrote:

I wondered about this after building a home wall with a 50 degree crack machine.  I could only make a move or two, even on good hands, but I could stay in the crack for a bit.  The only time I've had a chance to try a totally horizontal hand crack it was easier to move but more exhausting since you can't distribute your weight as much.  

Also if people aren't aware, Separate Reality is actually a bit both offset and angled. So your jams lock in with almost zero muscle engagement (until the final boulder). A crack machine is definitely harder at the size and angle.

Surprised nobody's mentioned the crack house near moab yet. Though I supposed it is a bit varied and has a lot of sizes in there, but still a pretty well-known roof crack which is mostly hands. 

Wren Cooperrider wrote:

Surprised nobody's mentioned the crack house near moab yet. Though I supposed it is a bit varied and has a lot of sizes in there, but still a pretty well-known roof crack which is mostly hands. 

The Crack House is a really good illustration of how much the length of a roof effects it's grade. Nats 3 Star Roof, or Beer Crack are both pretty comparable move-for-move, but Crack House is just so much longer than either that the grades are pretty far apart.

For tips these come to mind? Think for tips its hard to do anything more than slightly overhung

Tom Egan Memorial Route - Blood on the crack (RIP)
Meltdown
Magic Line (?) not really jamming