Mountain Project Logo

Infinity loop on anchor

Original Post
Anna Brown · · New Mexico · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 6,411

My friend sent this photo from a route in Korea. Does anyone know how this infinity loop with the cable is created?

drew A · · Portland, OR · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 6

There has to be a splice somewhere? How else would you get the hangers and hook on? Cool. 

Climbing Weasel · · Massachusetts · Joined May 2022 · Points: 0

Excuse me WHAT?!? Sorcery. 

wivanoff · · Northeast, USA · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 719

It's called a "cable laid grommet" and is spliced (woven)  like that. Similar to splices made in hawser laid rope. The ends are hidden inside. As the loop is stressed, it tightens like a Chinese finger puzzle.

Anna Brown · · New Mexico · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 6,411

“Sorcery” is the right word!

@wivanoff, would the developer have done this weaving/splicing on the wall or does it involve a specific tool? 

Anna Brown · · New Mexico · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 6,411

Using "cable laid grommet" as my keywords, I found this video showing the process of creating the infinity loop:

https://youtu.be/GiFGgFCkW9U

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Anna Brown wrote:

Using "cable laid grommet" as my keywords, I found this video showing the process of creating the infinity loop:

https://youtu.be/GiFGgFCkW9U

Well that’s a painful 30 minutes! (Gave up after 5 min)

Anna Brown · · New Mexico · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 6,411

My first photo was work clearly done by the “A” student. This one, not so much…

nbrown · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 7,967

New take on the "American Triangle ".

Taylor McKenzie · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 160

Aren't these essentially American death triangles (apart from the cable material forcing them into a more circular shape)? The angle doesn't look too bad on the first pic, but second pic might be a little concerning. Also, how would one assess when it's time to replace? Would it be apparent from looking at the outside of the cable, or might there something going on inside to be worried about?

Edit: nbrown beat me to it.

Bryan · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 482

10/10 would whip. Every triangle is a love triangle if you love triangles. 

Jim Day · · Fort Worth, TX · Joined Jan 2020 · Points: 3,159
Anna Brown wrote:

“Sorcery” is the right word!

@wivanoff, would the developer have done this weaving/splicing on the wall or does it involve a specific tool? 

Probably did the weaving/splicing with two hangers and a mussy hook from the comfort of home

Alex R · · Golden · Joined May 2015 · Points: 228
Taylor McKenzie wrote:

... how would one assess when it's time to replace? Would it be apparent from looking at the outside of the cable, or might there something going on inside to be worried about?

"Conveniently" the single lower off mussy hook is likely to wear out first, and with the way that thing is constructed, the whole ring would need to be replaced.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Alex R wrote:

"Conveniently" the single lower off mussy hook is likely to wear out first, and with the way that thing is constructed, the whole ring would need to be replaced.

Or you put a quick link on the cable and attach a new mussy to that.

Melanie Shea · · Denver · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 10

I’ve been dumbfounded trying to figure out the point of this but I think I’ve got it.

What a perfect loop to hold onto while clipping the mussy! I’m thinking comp rules should apply, both hands on the finish for a controlled 2s hold and then grab the clipping loop, does that sound fair to everybody? Extra style points for clipping the lower-offs “free”.

wivanoff · · Northeast, USA · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 719
Anna Brown wrote:

“Sorcery” is the right word!

@wivanoff, would the developer have done this weaving/splicing on the wall or does it involve a specific tool? 

I've only done this with nylon rope. I imagine there's a tool for wire rope - else you'd get your fingers chewed up. I would have done it on the comfort of my home.

nbrown · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 7,967
Marc801 C wrote:

Or you put a quick link on the cable and attach a new mussy to that.

I suppose... Could even put one on each bolt. 

Goofy anchor setup from someone doing a poor job reinventing the wheel.

Matt King · · Durango, CO · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 447
Taylor McKenzie wrote:

Aren't these essentially American death triangles (apart from the cable material forcing them into a more circular shape)? The angle doesn't look too bad on the first pic, but second pic might be a little concerning. Also, how would one assess when it's time to replace? Would it be apparent from looking at the outside of the cable, or might there something going on inside to be worried about?

Edit: nbrown beat me to it.

"American Death" triangles aren't actually a thing when it comes to bolts. You'll still get 20+kN per bolt depending on the linking material you use as a single loop. Plus you are 99% of the time just top roping or rappelling off of it at < 1.5kN.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Fixed Hardware: Bolts & Anchors
Post a Reply to "Infinity loop on anchor"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.