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Nose El Cap Question

Original Post
Jplotz · · Cashmere, WA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 1,335

I have a couple logistical questions regarding the Nose that I hope can be answnull.

Using a 70m rope, is there enough rope to climb Boot Flake and then do the King Swing all in one pitch with the belayer still on top of Texas Flake?

2nd question:  if it is possible, is there enough rope in a 70m haul line to lower the bag most or all of the way below Eagle Ledge?

Seems as if with this method one can avoid an extra haul to the top of Boot by hauling directly to EL instead.

And Before you try to spray me down with all the beta for the more "traditional" logistics of hauling to top of BF and the doing the swing then back cleaning the entire next pitch, save your breath, because I don't do it that way.  IMO this method is dangerous and ultimately slower.  Just my opinion.

Thanks for any beta on my questions!

Austin Donisan · · San Mateo, CA · Joined May 2014 · Points: 727
Jplotz · · Cashmere, WA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 1,335
Austin Donisanwrote:

According to this thread you can even do #1 with a 60m:
https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/116694854/beta-for-the-nose-texas-flake-to-eagle-ledge

Awesome thanks for this!

Mark Hudon · · Reno, NV · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

The King Swing over to Eagle Ledge with the belayer on top of Texas flake has been done probably a bazillion times.

If it required a rope longer than a 70, don’t you think that this would be common knowledge?

And if it requires a 70 (it can be done with a 60) how could it be possible to not have enough rope to lower out the haul bag with a 70?

Jplotz · · Cashmere, WA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 1,335
Mark Hudonwrote:

The King Swing over to Eagle Ledge with the belayer on top of Texas flake has been done probably a bazillion times.

If it required a rope longer than a 70, don’t you think that this would be common knowledge?

And if it requires a 70 (it can be done with a 60) how could it be possible to not have enough rope to lower out the haul bag with a 70?

It's interesting how self-importance turns some people into douchebags.

Just asking a simple question Mark. Chill out. Everything will be ok.  My question was politely answered in the first response to it.  

Mark Hudon · · Reno, NV · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

My comment was rather douchy.

Please accept my apology. 

Peter Zabrok · · Hamilton, ON · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 645

I was thinking the same thing, but didn't say anything.....   Cuz, you know, I never write anything douchey. Sheesh.  

Hey Mark, I've been having Dreams about Yosemite lately. When do you get back from Sea and arrive in the centre Of the universe? 

John Clark · · BLC · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 1,408
Jplotzwrote:

It's interesting how self-importance turns some people into douchebags.

Just asking a simple question Mark. Chill out. Everything will be ok.  My question was politely answered in the first response to it.  

So you could just lock the thread after your question was answered

Charles Winstead · · Mill Valley · Joined Jul 2021 · Points: 184

Kudos to Mark for being willing to apologize. Much respect gained there.

Rprops · · Nevada · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 2,423

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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