2020 Olympic results using the new scoring metric

I spent way too long doing this. The 2020 Olympics can't be scored exactly according to the current rubric because there were only three boulders with one zone each, so I've made the following adjustments:

1.      single zone is worth 4.5 points (average of 3 & 6)

2.      max lead score is 75 points, to match the max bouldering score, and is based off a top hold # of 45

Results (speed and speed climbers eliminated)

Men's: Schubert, Coleman, Ondra. This feels quite reasonable. Shubert was mid-pack for bouldering and the clear winner in lead. Coleman was the clear winner for bouldering and was mid-pack for lead. It's only a question of whether Ondra or Duffy ought to have bronze. Duffy was the better all-around climber

Women's: Gambret, Pilz, Seo. I think we can all agree Janja won. Interestingly, because the other bouldering scores were so low, the lead climbers take it. Again, I'd say the only controversy is bronze. Chaehyun got an incredible 0 in bouldering (doing much better now!) so again, Noguchi was the better all-around climber

Anyway, it's clear the new scoring rubric will make for a much better competition in 2024

Interesting analysis, wouldn't have considered doing this. I think it's fairly accurate just based on "feel" which means absolutely nothing lol.

Cool