What is a greater test piece. A 5.12 R on choss or a 5.12 R on splitter

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Choss

Princess Puppy Lovrwrote:

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A “test piece” is usually a classic climb, choss by definition, is “choss” and is not a good climb.

I know you disagree but “good” climbing was defined before your time and has distinguishable attributes, choss not among them.

Splitter, if it's a test piece you want it to remain consistent so you can test yourself against hard climbers of the past.  Pretty hard to get a consistent test on choss as the holds keep breaking.

Princess Puppy Lovrwrote:

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5.12R splitter? Does not compute

What is a greater test piece. A 5.12 R on choss or a 5.12 R on splitter

Yes!

Splitters can't be R?

Potter Wonderlandwrote:

Splitters can't be R?

splitters that pinch down so tight that the gear isn't good enough to hold a fall. 

Dan Booklesswrote:

splitters that pinch down so tight that the gear isn't good enough to hold a fall. 

Yeah I can’t remember what Indian creek climb I saw but it thinned out to R rated. It doesn’t necessarily have to be a splitter crack in the title. I meant to say bomber but I was on 2 hours of sleep trying to comfort a baby when I posted.

Princess Puppy Lovrwrote:

Yeah I can’t remember what Indian creek climb I saw but it thinned out to R rated. It doesn’t necessarily have to be a splitter crack in the title. I meant to say bomber but I was on 2 hours of sleep trying to comfort a baby when I posted.

Where did you get a baby? 

Bryanwrote:

Where did you get a baby? 

Pleading the fifth

How choss are we talking?

Matt Robinsonwrote:

Splitter, if it's a test piece you want it to remain consistent so you can test yourself against hard climbers of the past.  Pretty hard to get a consistent test on choss as the holds keep breaking.

But isn’t it a great challenge to go into the uncertainty. Is alpine choss less impressive than some bomber cliff off the ground? When someone says the put up a 5.12 R in the alpine it is more impressive than a 5.12 R at your roadside crag.