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Your Go to Racking Biners

Original Post
Jeremy Bultman · · Haslett MI · Joined Mar 2020 · Points: 10

Whats your go to racking biners and why?  Currently set up with Nano 22s on a single rack but just doubled my standard rack and added some smaller sizes too.  Kind of leaning towards the Camp Dyon since they do have an additional color to use over some other MFG out there and they have a more narrow nose profile than most still at full strength.  Also Considering the WC Helium 3.0 since i get a great deal on them and they are also a snag free design but seem to maybe be a bit bulkier than the Dyon.  Otherwise do many of you have strong opinions towards mini biners like the nanos for shaving a few grams?   Just interested in hearing some other pros and cons and opinions i may have not thought of yet on my own.  Lets hear what you all have to say. 

gtluke · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 1

Nano 22's, because they're thin. I like the small THIN carabiners since they rack nice and tidy and I don't really ever clip directly to my cams (gunks). I had some small metolius biners but they were rather wide and didn't rack as nice, and the gate opening was really small.
I actually don't mind the snag design and may actually prefer it as it somewhat prevents you from accidental unclipping off your harness. I've only had one item drop off my harness mid climb and it was a no snag locker.

Tal M · · Denver, CO · Joined Dec 2018 · Points: 6,680

Trango Phase - they're light, I like the bent gate, they're cheap, I like how the gear sits on my harness.

That being said - the Heliums are also super rad, but they're way more expensive. If I got a good deal on them, I'd probably go that way.

Peter Y · · Chapel Hill, NC · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 6

Black Diamond Oz. Thin, snagless, and large enough that clipping isn't an issue

John Clark · · BLC · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 1,408

Combo of BD Oz and Mini depending on the objective. I throw in two draws with old neutrinos for a bit of beef too

Nértovk Sklimner · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2020 · Points: 0

BD Oz. Because of the weight and snag free. I caught them on a sale and just bought some six packs.

I can't stand racking with the nano, way too small. Personally I'd rather carry the extra weight and deal with those tiny carabiners. 

The Dyons are awesome too. I have a bunch of those on alpine draws.

ClimbingOn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 0

BD Oz. 

Christian Hesch · · Arroyo Grande, CA · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 56

Oz is not thin, not compared to the Dyon. Heliums are seemingly double the width of the Dyon, so that one is clear, from a clutter perspective.

If your hands can handle the nano or any other mini, feel free. My hands are medium 4's and small doesn't work well for me, so I keep my eyes out for deals on Dyons. I typically don't pay over $9/ea, including tax/shipping. Just be patient and they'll pop up. 

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65

Any biner that I would also use anywhere else. Racking biners should be interchangeable with the rest of your biners.

ClimbingOn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 0
Marc801 Cwrote:

Any biner that I would also use anywhere else. Racking biners should be interchangeable with the rest of your biners.

Valid point. All my alpine/trad draws are BD Oz as well.

Mike J · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2023 · Points: 0

I've got Nano 22s on my draws and alpine draws (most of which only have one carabiner) but I use Edelrid 19s for my cams. Because it's the lightest option I know and it works great. Even in winter with gloves on, I know what everybody says but I swear you get used to it and then it's no problem. It just feels fiddly at first when you're not used to it.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Mike Jwrote:

Even in winter with gloves on, I know what everybody says but I swear you get used to it and then it's no problem. It just feels fiddly at first when you're not used to it.

That alone is enough for me not to use them. 

Disclaimer: I don't do any climbing that requires any glove types other than belay or crack.

Mike · · Phoenix · Joined May 2006 · Points: 2,615
Marc801 Cwrote:

Any biner that I would also use anywhere else. Racking biners should be interchangeable with the rest of your biners.

Heliums on almost everything is my preferred way to go.

Tim Wheatley · · Nomad · Joined May 2019 · Points: 1,036

I love racking on Bd litewires. Perfect for every situation in my opinion. As compared to the mini wires I think they are slightly bigger and perfect.

Zach Baer · · Bellingham · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 5

If I had enough money to have heliums for every carabiner I own, I'd triple down on that shit baby.

Justin S · · Squamish · Joined Jun 2021 · Points: 0

Nano for large pieces, Dyon for fingers for easy unclipping. I rack same size pro together (instead of having one rack on each side) and find it a lot easier to unclip with the Dyons

Derek Santavenere · · Hartford, CT · Joined May 2017 · Points: 100

i use bd mostly cuz their cheap but i used the edelrid 19g for my micro cams - i dont allways rack them but when i do they take up almost no room

Josh S · · Brooklyn, NY / Gunks · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 5

Used to use nanos, got tired of sticky Camp gates, the snagging nose, and felt like the smaller size was occasionally annoying. Swapped out to DMM chimera. They’re slightly bulky because of the wide nose, but really nice. 

Brandon R · · CA · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 222
Josh Swrote:

Used to use nanos, got tired of sticky Camp gates, the snagging nose, and felt like the smaller size was occasionally annoying. Swapped out to DMM chimera. They’re slightly bulky because of the wide nose, but really nice. 

+1 on DMM carabiners being the highest quality. They definitely outlast anything Camp. 

DMM Phantoms (28g) are a little bigger than Nanos and have an open gate rating of 9kN. In 10 years of using them I've never once had a single sticky gate. Spectres (33g) are the full size version of the Phantom for the big handed. Neither of these are keylock/notchless, but for a racking carabiner that's not a high priority for me. Also have a wide bottom basket (is there a name for that part of a carabiner?) so they sit nicely on the wider nylon slings of C4s.  

M M · · Maine · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 2
Locker wrote:

When you climb at the level I do, it pretty much doesn't matter...

So, any of them will do...

 

Same. My favorite racking biners are smaller ones that didn't cost much.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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