z4 trigger wire repair - how to remove old trigger wires?

As an update, none of the materials mentioned upthread have held up over time on my .75 Z4. Here is my latest attempt: 20 gauge galvanized steel wire. 20 gauge is exactly the biggest wire that will fit through the z4 and ul c4 trigger wire holes.

Ellen S wrote:

As an update, none of the materials mentioned upthread have held up over time on my .75 Z4. Here is my latest attempt: 20 gauge galvanized steel wire. 20 gauge is exactly the biggest wire that will fit through the z4 and ul c4 trigger wire holes.

Did you try the welding wire? It's much stiffer and doesn't get all wavy and bendy like galvanized does.

I've had no issues with the 4 cams I've repaired this way, in use for over a year now.

Alex, 

Any ideas on capping off the ends of the short bends that terminate the wire and hold it on the lobe? I repaired a UL C4 #4 and sometimes the little "hooks" catch on slings and stuff. It's not really a problem per se, just kind of annoying. I wish I could make the ends a little fatter, like it was from the factory, but that would likely involve heating it and then somehow directly applying a lot of force. Maybe a little dob of sugru? Luckily, all my Z4's have been trouble free for the last few years, but I'm sure I'll eventually need to repair one. I like the lack of a swage, keeps things simple. Do you think the welding cable is stronger than the original wires? 

The folded over end needs to be able to pivot within the lobe, so a drop of glue won't work.

The welding wire probably has a lower tensile strength than the stock cables, but it doesn't have the stress concentration at the crimp that causes the braided cable to break, so the welding wire likely will last longer overall.

Scott D wrote:

Alex, 

Any ideas on capping off the ends of the short bends that terminate the wire and hold it on the lobe? I repaired a UL C4 #4 and sometimes the little "hooks" catch on slings and stuff. It's not really a problem per se, just kind of annoying. I wish I could make the ends a little fatter, like it was from the factory, but that would likely involve heating it and then somehow directly applying a lot of force. Maybe a little dob of sugru? Luckily, all my Z4's have been trouble free for the last few years, but I'm sure I'll eventually need to repair one. I like the lack of a swage, keeps things simple. Do you think the welding cable is stronger than the original wires? 

I don't know what type of wire it was (it could have been something as low tech as the wire handle from a Chinese food take-out container. I've used that for C4 repairs), but if you clamp it in a vise so only 1/8 inch sticks up, heat that bit red hot and simultaneously keep tapping it with a hammer, you can get a nice little flare on the end. It does take practice.

I’ve replaced a bootied .75s trigger wires with galvanized steel wire. Has held up supper good enough so far.

looks like this is the closest thing to bd wire that i've come across. wire rope

Cable - https://www.mcmaster.com/8930T53/

Swage - https://www.mcmaster.com/3898T29/ 

Swaging tool

Phish Wren wrote:

I’ve replaced a bootied .75s trigger wires with galvanized steel wire. Has held up supper good enough so far.

Just did the same with my Z4s. After doing some research, dont see the need to replace the cable with the wire/cable combo. Wire seems totally solid and easily field replaceable. Galvanized wire is super cheap and fairly easy to do. 

I've been having the hardest time getting the cable out of the inside lobe on my Z4 0.2 that I broke the trigger wire on. I'm not totally convinced it's possible at this point. I wish I'd read this thread prior to going to work on it. Sounds like the swaging thing would have been the way to go, but it may be that I did this:

Austin Donisan wrote:

If instead you first break the wire on the backside so it's almost flush you can get left with a little bend that you can't push into the hole and will leave you very frustrated.

But it's more that I think there isn't enough room to maneuver it out with the small lobes on the 0.2. All the pics and convo in this thread seem to be of the larger Z4s. Gunkiemike, Alex, anyone else: have you had success removing the wire from the inner lobe of the single axle Z4s? It seems to me that the hole is not fully uncovered at any point in the range of travel of the lobes.

Thanks in advance!

Slim Pickens wrote:

I've been having the hardest time getting the cable out of the inside lobe on my Z4 0.2 that I broke the trigger wire on. I'm not totally convinced it's possible at this point. I wish I'd read this thread prior to going to work on it. Sounds like the swaging thing would have been the way to go, but it may be that I did this:

But it's more that I think there isn't enough room to maneuver it out with the small lobes on the 0.2. All the pics and convo in this thread seem to be of the larger Z4s. Gunkiemike, Alex, anyone else: have you had success removing the wire from the inner lobe of the single axle Z4s? It seems to me that the hole is not fully uncovered at any point in the range of travel of the lobes.

Thanks in advance!

I've done a few of my Z4's at this point all with just a basic leatherman. The inside lobes are tricky. Cut the braided cable and then bend the wire straight-ish so you can shove the peen'd end out of the hole and cut it off. It's a bit fiddly for sure but definitely doable.