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Sam Bedell
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Mar 7, 2022
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Bend, OR
· Joined Sep 2012
· Points: 443
All these people are giving you advice based on what worked for them. All of their advice is good, in that they have identified one component of making someone a good trad climber. If you have the same weaknesses that they did you can use their advice successfully. If you try to do all these things at once you will not get much benefit and may over train your self or get injured. Figure out what your weak areas are and train those. Maybe you do need to get better at bouldering (gym grades usually don't compare to outdoor grades) but if you send V5 (supposed to be equal to a 5.12 crux) then you probably don't have an issue. If you spend lots of time doing roped laps in the gym endurance MAY not be the issue (time how long you spend on the wall and compare that to an actual trad pitch, you may need to do some ARCing). If you've climbed lots (and I mean LOTS) of 5.9 in Yos, then technique MAY not be your issue, though 5.9 in the valley tends to be wide to hands and not have thin cracks or face holds (maybe TR thinner sizes to get more mileage?). If you are getting into 10s by climbing short punchy cruxes because they look less intimidating on paper, but then you don't like climbing above your gear to punch through that crux, then maybe you need to take some whippers and get your head on. Maybe you just need to climb cracks a lot more. Long story short, none of us can tell you what YOU need. Be brutally honest with yourself. Identify your weaknesses, pick one or two that you think are holding you back most, and attack those for 2+ months at a time. Don't give up or move on until they are crushed and replaced as half decent strengths. Also, remember climbing is hard, that's the point. Every climber finds pitches that frustrate them which are "easy" on paper for them. Finding a pitch someone called 10a that feels like 11a doesn't necessarily make it a sandbag or you a crap climber. Enjoy the process and learn to appreciate an opportunity to improve in a new way you hadn't yet discovered.
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Collin H
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Mar 8, 2022
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Ventura, CA
· Joined May 2019
· Points: 0
If you want to send cracks in the valley, this has everything you need (including the British humor):
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Rob Dillon
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Mar 8, 2022
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Tamarisk Clearing
· Joined Mar 2002
· Points: 724
Ultimately, technique will get you a lot farther than power, especially if you're looking at long Valley crack routes*. Muscle-thrutching through 5.10 cruxes with shitty technique will only postpone the need to for real ability until the 5.11 realm, which is where Yosemite cracks really starts to shine. So yeah, boulder in the gym during the week, and then find a way to get ropes on those classic cracks over the weekends and lap them until what was once hard feels like it flows. You'll probably need to let go of leading at your limit while trying this. That's okay. To everything a season. Homie's point about footwork should not be ignored. Most crack climbing,especially on granite, is about keeping your weight on the body parts designed to hold you upright. Core strength goes a long way here, cuz every move is a bit of a sit-up. Also, Reeds Direct eats big nuts like a 1000-lb squirrel scarfing a tray outside the caf. When I used to climb it a lot I had a dedicated crabful of rando large stoppers that I reserved for that pitch, which features that long lightning-bolt series of pods and constrictions. Save that 4 for the top and you won't be tempted to wuss out on the face. . *Yaniro's point notwithstanding, I'm pretty sure he wasn't talking about how to get up Y-crack.
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Steve McGee
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Mar 16, 2022
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Sandpoint, ID
· Joined Aug 2021
· Points: 795
Jamming technique, footwork, and planning. - Jamming technique: a big part of it is knowing where not to try to jam, which was mentioned in this thread. Also, knowing how to make the most out of the jams available. Only climbing cracks will give you an opportunity to learn this
- Footwork: the better you are here, the worse jams you can rely on. Partly because you can lean in a direction that improves the jam, and definitely because good footwork will take a lot of weight off your arms. The gym can teach you about this, actually. Personally, it did for me and that was at the 10 to 10+ level.
- Planning: if you're getting pumped it could be because you spend too much time in the crux. Learn to see the crux, and the rests. Aim for the rests and place gear quickly. If it's a strenuous climb the clock is ticking and wasting time fiddling with gear on the worst jams of the pitch will pump you out. Similar to skipping the bad jams by paying attention, skip the unnecessary sketchy pumps trying to pull up rope to clip from a bad stance.
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Old Prospector
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Mar 17, 2022
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UT
· Joined Feb 2017
· Points: 147
Thanks all for the suggestions and dialogue. My main takeaways include: Focus on weaknesses - in my case I don't trust gear, I climbed scared a lot. TR a lot - run laps on stuff that feels hard until it no longer feels hard. Boulder and sport climb harder routes to increase power. Have better strategy on routes - efficient gear placements, good rests, more reliance on feet.
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Ben Horowitz
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Mar 17, 2022
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Bishop, CA / Tokyo, JP
· Joined Aug 2014
· Points: 147
Probably the best place to go is Cookie Cliff. Hang dog your way up the cracks and then TR them to oblivion. If it worked for the stone masters it might work for you.
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S Saunders
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Apr 4, 2022
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Oakdale, CA
· Joined Sep 2007
· Points: 45
P2 of Reeds is funky. Try Exorcist, Tax Man, Pre Packaged, and Poodles are People Too in JTree. Good entry 10s. For Tahquitz, get on Super Pooper to Price of Fear Finish. Also, Farewell Horizontal.
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S Saunders
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Apr 4, 2022
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Oakdale, CA
· Joined Sep 2007
· Points: 45
Dude - you led Church Bowl Tree! That sucker is slippery with a legit move to the chains. Looks like you should just keep jumping on 10s…you got it.
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