End Loop Knots for Cordalette

A few weekends ago, a buddy of mine introduced me to the bunnyears cordalette. Because I already carry a quad-length runner for anchor building, the bunny ears formulation seems like a better use for my cordalette as it gives different options than the quad-length. However, I don't know what knots are best for the actual loop formation. Figure eights are an obvious choice, but they burn through a lot of length. I'm tempted to try an angler's loop, but don't know a lot about how it bears up under climbing loads—however my reading indicates that the issue is more that it can't be untied after loading, not that it presents a risk of coming undone. Wondering who else out there is running a bunnyears, and what loop knots y'all are using. Thanks!

Just leave em un-tied then you can tie whatever knot or hitch you want when you need it. 

Jeremy Bauman wrote:

Just leave em un-tied then you can tie whatever knot or hitch you want when you need it. 

How do you prefer to rack it?

I use figure 8's.  I end up using my cordalette for building top rope anchors a lot, so having the option of the extra length let's me get the master point over an edge.  Also works well if the few available gear options are quite spread out, and of course you can always clip both ears into the same piece and use it like a regular cordalette.

Overhand on a bight is fine, but if you already use a quad length sling, I wouldn't carry a cordelette in addition to that. Just use one or the other. If you're really worried about having to bail, carry the cord so you can cut it up and leave it behind if you have to. 

Brian H wrote:

How do you prefer to rack it?

Put both ends together, then rap the whole cord around your hand until you have about a foot or so left with the resulting bite. Take your hand out. Take the bite section and wrap it tightly around the bundle until you can just barely poke the bite through the eye of the bundle. Clip and you're all set. If you do it up nice and tight, it won't come undone.

If you want it to be a little more secure, just tie a loose edk joining the two ends before you bundle it up. 

Kevin Mokracek wrote:

You knew you were going to get this but ditch the cordalette all together and just tie a bunny ears eight on the rope and belay off the shelf.

Looks like your partner will be leading the next pitch.

i like a figure 8 and just leave two carabiners on. For racking I clip the two ends together and half, half again half one more time, tie a big figure 8 or overhand, clip to harness using masterpoint biner.

soft crux wrote:

Looks like your partner will be leading the next pitch.

He can or he can just clip into the anchor with whatever method he chooses, he puts me on belay before I untie the bunny ears eight, I untie and I’m off on the next pitch.  It shouldnt take more than a minute to get going with this method.   The cordalette is fine but I don’t like clutter and extra stuff on my harness like the cordalette.  

Back to the OP’s question, clove hitch. Alternate question would be for choice of knot if you are using spectra cord. That would be too slippery to clove hitch wouldn’t it? 

Greg R wrote:

Back to the OP’s question, clove hitch. Alternate question would be for choice of knot if you are using spectra cord. That would be too slippery to clove hitch wouldn’t it? 

Back to my original question, it sounds like the Angler's loop is one to consider—it's strength is its holding power when used with slippery or elastic cord. The downside is that you'll probably not be able to untie it, though I've found that it's easier to get out than a figure 8 or overhand on the bight in 7mm cord.

Definitely don't need to tie the loops on the tails. I did that for a while and ended up untying them on route more than once.

I store cordellettes by getting the tails, folding it all in half, half again, and again if I can - the goal is to take a shortened bundle and tie an overhand knot in it. Tighten the knot so it doesn't come loose. I do this instead of make the tight bundle the IFMGA guide manual used to teach. Making that compact bundle takes too much time to tie and untie. 

Not sure if ur more interested in functionality or just racking style but I agree with what was said above in the beginning of the discussion. 

A 20 to 23 foot length (get extra to make up for length used to make knots) of 7mm static cordalette with a small figure 8 with about a 2-3 inch loop on each end.  About 2-3 inches of tail for safety.  With this system you can make any anchor u need.

I use this setup for walling... hauling bags and heavy loads.  You can close the system by adding both figure 8s to one piece then equalize it through the rest.  Or say you have 4 pieces put ur 8s on the outside pieces and then equalize.  Having this open ended system gives you the freedom to have all that extra length you may need... or not.  Too much cordalette?  Tie a flat overhand knot to shorten it to ur desired length.

Racking it: meet the ends together 3 times then tie an 8.  Hang it up. Send it.

Greg R wrote:

Back to the OP’s question, clove hitch. Alternate question would be for choice of knot if you are using spectra cord. That would be too slippery to clove hitch wouldn’t it? 

Clove hitch is a middle of the rope knot.

I use an overhand on a bight with plenty of tail.

If the carabiners are to stay attached you could use a scaffold knot.

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/110108159/scaffold-hitch

Overhands on a bite. One loop slightly longer than the other so they snuggle up together nicely when they're both clipped to the same piece of gear.

I tend to lead all the pitches, so I typically carry two anchors, one of which is normally a 20' length of 7mm nylon cord. I usually have it configured as a continuous loop tied with a flat overhand, but on occasion I will have to sling a big block or stretch my gear out and I'll tie it with loops on the ends. I use figure 8s on bights normally because they untie easily, but I'll do overhands if I really need the length. I think it's more important that you are fast and proficient at tying/untying/visualizing/using knots on the wall than how you have it set up when you start your climb.

I rack mine by halving it twice and tying a big overhand in the middle, like someone described above. Its the same if I have it as a continuous length, I just hold the two ends together when I fold it up. I find this faster than the twisted up bundle because I don't have to untangle/untwist it when I'm building the anchor. 

If I'm swinging leads, I typically prefer to just use the rope. Depends on the climb sometimes too.