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How you rack quad anchors?

Original Post
D B · · Gardena (South Bay) · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 30

How do you rack quad anchors to your harness? I’m just wondering if there’s a good way that I’ve missed. I usually just clip the two carabiners that for the bolts on my gear loop. It hangs down quite a bit and it bulky. 

Bill Lawry · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,815

Keep a locker between the limiter knots. Two biners in their usual strands are clipped to the locker which kind of folds the Quad back on itself. Then clip the locker to your harness gear loop?

Mitch Steiner · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 0

Yeah I usually leave a biner in the middle to bring up the bottom part. Just make sure to switch it to clipping 3 instead of 4 strands. Or use two biners. 

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 378

I twist it and clip it back on itself so it creates a small pigtail then throw it in the gear bin in my garage and leave it there.   

Franck Vee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 260

What Bill says works best imo. I have a small vertical loop at the back of my harness. I tend to clip there my belay device & the anchor & a prussic knot. I put them there in the order where I plan to use them - e.g. if I'm leading a pitch, the twisted up quad Bill described is outward, belay device if seconding etc.

Eliot Hack · · New England · Joined May 2020 · Points: 1

I do it up like an alpine draw, pass one carabiner through the other and clip the bottom loop, just like an alpine, this is a nice small package and you could use it as a draw in a pinch if needed. 

Demetri V · · Farmington, CT · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 132

This is what I do.

I only ever really bring this with me if I know most belay/rappel stations are going to be 2 bolts side by side. 

Bill Lawry · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,815
Demetri Vwrote:

I only ever really bring this with me if I know most belay/rappel stations are going to be 2 bolts side by side. 

I nearly posted the same.  That’s my MO as well.

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,516

Whatever you do, learn to rack and unrack that thing quickly and please leave it at home when sport climbing. There's little more annoying that your partner fucking around with a goddamned quad on a two bolt sport anchor. Or shit, learn to clip it to the anchors quickly without the fuckery. Either works for me, right Clay?

Christian Hesch · · Arroyo Grande, CA · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 55
Kevin Mokracekwrote:

I twist it and clip it back on itself so it creates a small pigtail then throw it in the gear bin in my garage and leave it there.   

This is the correct answer.

David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 70

Pre formed quads etc are I think best carried with the tie in locker and reverso clipped to them. Such belay rigs help to then speed things up. 

Seriously Moderate Climber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0
Mitch Steinerwrote:

Just make sure to switch it to clipping 3 instead of 4 strands.

Are you clipping all four strands of a quad while using it as an anchor?  If so, you should be clipping two or three strands.  If not, I totally misinterpreted what you said.

Mitch Steiner · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 0
Seriously Moderate Climberwrote:

Are you clipping all four strands of a quad while using it as an anchor?  If so, you should be clipping two or three strands.  If not, I totally misinterpreted what you said.

That’s what I was saying not to do. If you just use one biner (in between limiter knots) to pull up all the strands, then you need to make sure to switch up your strands when using it. To rack, if you only capture 3 strands, one strand is gonna hang down. 

D B · · Gardena (South Bay) · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 30
Ryan Never climbs wrote:

Tripled up around my shoulders like a normal runner 

I’ve tried that but it’s too tight. I have a medium build and not sure how anyone can do that comfortably.   

D B · · Gardena (South Bay) · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 30
Seriously Moderate Climberwrote:

Are you clipping all four strands of a quad while using it as an anchor?  If so, you should be clipping two or three strands.  If not, I totally misinterpreted what you said.

No, this is not what I’m talking about. I’m asking how people rack it to their harness best.

I like the way Demetri does it. Check out the video he linked. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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