How you rack quad anchors?
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How do you rack quad anchors to your harness? I’m just wondering if there’s a good way that I’ve missed. I usually just clip the two carabiners that for the bolts on my gear loop. It hangs down quite a bit and it bulky. |
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Keep a locker between the limiter knots. Two biners in their usual strands are clipped to the locker which kind of folds the Quad back on itself. Then clip the locker to your harness gear loop? |
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Yeah I usually leave a biner in the middle to bring up the bottom part. Just make sure to switch it to clipping 3 instead of 4 strands. Or use two biners. |
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I twist it and clip it back on itself so it creates a small pigtail then throw it in the gear bin in my garage and leave it there. |
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What Bill says works best imo. I have a small vertical loop at the back of my harness. I tend to clip there my belay device & the anchor & a prussic knot. I put them there in the order where I plan to use them - e.g. if I'm leading a pitch, the twisted up quad Bill described is outward, belay device if seconding etc. |
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I do it up like an alpine draw, pass one carabiner through the other and clip the bottom loop, just like an alpine, this is a nice small package and you could use it as a draw in a pinch if needed. |
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I only ever really bring this with me if I know most belay/rappel stations are going to be 2 bolts side by side. |
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Demetri Vwrote: I nearly posted the same. That’s my MO as well. |
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Whatever you do, learn to rack and unrack that thing quickly and please leave it at home when sport climbing. There's little more annoying that your partner fucking around with a goddamned quad on a two bolt sport anchor. Or shit, learn to clip it to the anchors quickly without the fuckery. Either works for me, right Clay? |
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Kevin Mokracekwrote: This is the correct answer. |
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Pre formed quads etc are I think best carried with the tie in locker and reverso clipped to them. Such belay rigs help to then speed things up. |
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Mitch Steinerwrote: Are you clipping all four strands of a quad while using it as an anchor? If so, you should be clipping two or three strands. If not, I totally misinterpreted what you said. |
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Seriously Moderate Climberwrote: That’s what I was saying not to do. If you just use one biner (in between limiter knots) to pull up all the strands, then you need to make sure to switch up your strands when using it. To rack, if you only capture 3 strands, one strand is gonna hang down. |
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Ryan Never climbs wrote: I’ve tried that but it’s too tight. I have a medium build and not sure how anyone can do that comfortably. |
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Seriously Moderate Climberwrote: No, this is not what I’m talking about. I’m asking how people rack it to their harness best. I like the way Demetri does it. Check out the video he linked. |




