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Single 22cm ice screw for threads/rescue?

Original Post
Mathias Maurin · · Western PA · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 0

Hey friends! 

I was just wondering if any of you had experience with using a single 22cm ice screw for crevasse rescue anchors/ mountaineering v thread anchors? I'm new to ice screws and don't really want to buy a quiver, but thought that one long one might be worth its use? Thoughts? Anyone do this? 

Thanks!!

Mathias

jdejace · · New England · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 5

Most people carry a single 21-22cm for V threads. For the ice climbing rack mostly 13cm and maybe a few 16cm.

JonasMR · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 6

One 22cm screw is great for v-thread anchors; aluminum is great for carrying up mountains. There will be situations in the mountains where you'll want a second screw, even with your axe and picket(s). You probably won't always bring two screws, but owning two (of different lengths) is a good thing to do.

And don't forget, whether you use 1 screw or 2, yer gunna die. 

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,717
jdejacewrote:

Most people carry a single 21-22cm for V threads. For the ice climbing rack mostly 13cm and maybe a few 16cm.

What he says. Nowadays folks might choose an aluminum screw for that purpose, seeing that it'll be so much lighter, and that core-plugging problems would be easier to deal with at a stance compared to on lead. My "driller screw" is a Grivel 360. The tiny hanger lets me get all of the screw in when I'm drilling at an angle to the surface. Yes, I could chip away the ice to get clearance for something like a BD, but why deal with that?

Edit to add - with folks coming around to realizing the utility of 13s and 16s, I'm seeing tons of 19s and 22s on the used market. You should be able to pick one up for $25 or less.

Jason EL · · Almostsomewhere, AL · Joined Jan 2021 · Points: 0

I bring two 21cm Laser Lights, and almost always reserve one for each of the anchors, if conditions afford.  Rope soloing, I don't have the mass of a belayer in the equation.  The longer screw in the anchor fools me enough to think everything is reasonable and stuff.

Mathias Maurin · · Western PA · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 0

Amazing, guys! Thanks for all the replies. It sounds like at least one long screw and one shorter is the way to go, I'll be looking for used ones haha

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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