Webbing for Quickdraws

I have some extra (gently used) 1" tubular webbing that I was thinking about cutting to make pseudo dogbones for quickdraws and alpine draws. The webbing I have is rated to withstand 17Kn and I'm noticing that standard dogbones and dyneema slings are usually 22Kn. 

With that said, is tubular webbing safe to use to make quick draws or alpine draws, or is the 17Kn rating too low for a standard lead fall?

I recommend just investing in some real dogbones and/or slings. They aren't super expensive all told and in the long run you won't constantly be checking whether your knots are slipping and your partners will be happier. Actual dog bones also have the benefit of being (in most cases) stiffer and easier to handle than tied slings. Personally, I save webbing for tat rap stations that need replacing or static TR anchor extensions. Maybe keep a couple over the shoulder in case you want to have some you can untie (which may not be super easy) if you want to have a bail sling or two available. 

That said, people do occasionally use webbing for this purpose and it's strong enough provided you tie it and stay after the knots, but it seems like a PITA to me. There is a reason people switched to dedicated sewn slings and draws years ago. 

What Matt said, plus alpine draws from 1" webbing are a clusterphoque.

Thanks for the replies. It's probably best to just spend the extra money to get quickdraws and alpine draws. I guess I'm just being a cheapskate and trying to save money where I can. 

Better to save your life than your wallet!

Not dangerous, but not everything is about that. You will have difficulty finding partners doing stuff like that, and in the long run, you will buy draws anyway. Buy cheap, buy twice.

Ben Lazarwrote:

With that said, is tubular webbing safe to use to make quick draws or alpine draws, or is the 17Kn rating too low for a standard lead fall?

It's strong enough. That's what all of us used before sewn slings became a thing. See these pages from the '72 Chouinard catalog 

https://climbaz.com/chouinard72/graphics/page14.JPG, climbaz.com/chouinard72/gra…

But, you won't like the bulkiness.

When I started climbing, we all tied our own slings with 1" webbing. Mostly over the shoulder length, but I also would tie shorter ones for "sport" climbing, which was any bolt. But I bought sewn slings from Blue Water as soon as I could afford them. Still use one for a gear sling occasionally. 

Loop strength of tied will be about 1.5 times single strand, so about 25 kn.