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Repelling Technique

Original Post
Will T · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2019 · Points: 0

I was recently repelling after setting a top rope and I had a tough time going over the edge due to the rope anchor point being set over the edge. I grabbed my webbing to brace myself but that puts my fingers at risk of being caught against the rock. I was wondering if there is better techniques for going over an edge when your top rope anchor is over the edge as well. 

Blue Collar Climbing · · Gear Protected Lowball · Joined Jan 2020 · Points: 0

If you are worried about getting your fingers pinched against the rock by holding the webbing (which I don't think is really a huge concern--by the time the webbing is being pressed down to the rock, you should be able to hold onto it below the edge or just be on rappel), you could always clip an extraneous 2 or 4 foot sling to one of your pieces or pro/bolts/whatever and use that as a "handle."

If the anchor is a tree way back from the edge where this isn't feasible, you can throw a prussik or hollow block or whatever a foot above the edge and clip a sling to that to the same effect.

Or depending on the terrain, it may be possible to downclimb with 1 hand (or even throw a safety knot below your device and downclimb with 2).

Adam Fleming · · SLC · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 531

The pro way to do this is to use your static line to make a tether on one of your components (knot the end!).  Pull up the top-rope and set up your rappel; consider an extension and  friction hitch backup, perhaps tie a big honkin' knot on the brake strands for extra security.  Then rappel using the tether, most likely with a grigri, until the double rope rap you set up prior comes tight.  Unweight and take off the high rappel, rappel the route.  

Bill Lawry · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,815
Blue Collar Climbingwrote: Or depending on the terrain, it may be possible to downclimb with 1 hand (or even throw a safety knot below your device and downclimb with 2).

Similar to this, I'd tie off the rap device with a hitch that is load releasable, down climb until it is weighted, release the hitch and rap.

F r i t z · · North Mitten · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 1,190

Some women find me trad climbing, but most find me repelling.

mountainhick · · Black Hawk, Franktown, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120

I find the best technique for repelling is to not bathe for weeks

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

I think DEET is the best at mosquito repelling.

Used 2climb · · Far North · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 0

Spray about your proj. That usually repels most

Bill Lawry · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,815

Will,  I don't think they'll stop until you fix the typo in the subject line ... maybe not even then.  :)

Pepe LePoseur · · Remote Ontario · Joined Jun 2020 · Points: 0
Adam Flemingwrote: The pro way to do this is to use your static line to make a 

 The pros are rapping into their top ropes now?  ;)

Adam Fleming · · SLC · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 531
Pepe LePoseurwrote: The pros are rapping into their top ropes now?  ;)

The Top Rope Tough Guys of course. And guides/instructors. 

Demetri V · · Farmington, CT · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 132

I use a static rope for rigging instead of webbing, and I typically do the “three-in-one system” when I’m in a similar situation. Go to page 195 of 275 at this link

issuu.com/zverolov/docs/roc…

As already mentioned above, the great thing about this is that you can rig your two strand rappel while safe at the top; then, with your Grigri on the instructor tether, single strand rappel until the two strand rappel becomes tight and takes the slack off the Grigri. Remove the Grigri and continue rappelling down to the bottom.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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