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Cimbing after Hip repacement surgery

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Jon Neace · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined Jan 2020 · Points: 0

Jon Neace                 ·         moments ago        ·                    Unknown Hometown                             · Joined 15 hours ago            · Points: 0               Hi all, I am an avid rock climber who is about to have a total hip replacement surgery due to osteoarthritis . My orthopedic surgeon strongly recommends to completely stop climbing after surgery (forever). His concern is the possibilities of the ball popping out of the socket due to the loads and stress put on the hip from climbing. Apparently if this happens you have big problems. I have asked about the possibility of just climbing easier grades. Again he insists its not worth the risk. If you have knowledge and/or experience in this area I sure would appreciate your thoughts. Thanks.
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Derek Lawrence · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 695

Which approach? Anterior or posterior?
I had total hip replacement 3 years ago (anterior approach).  Was climbing again after 3 months.   The only concern my Doctor had was when I described a knee bar I had considered loading on a steep climb at RRG (would have been sideways and rotating).  He suggested I avoid those types of moves...
My fake hip is the least of my concerns now in regards to climbing

Jeff G · · Colorado · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,098

I had an Anterior Hip replacement 4 years ago.  I started easy climbing at 10 weeks, was back climbing 5.12  at 7 months, and led all pitches of Epinephrine at 10 months.  I've led several 5.12's since my hip replacement, climbed lots of trad routes in Eldo and Red Rocks, and done long alpine routes in RMNP.  I've skied without too much trouble but I haven't done any bigger moguls.  Skinning uphill isn't too much of a problem but my muscles can get sore from the constant hip flexion.  I've done some really long hiking days doing 13'ers and 14'ers in Colorado and I get sore for a day or two (in the  anterior hip muscles)  after those big days.
Climbing probably wouldn't be a great idea after a Posterior replacement due to the risk of dislocation in flexion and internal rotation positions.

Jon Nelson · · Redmond, WA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 8,196

I had a "direct anterior" hip replacement five months ago. The assistant physicians I talked with didn't tell me to avoid climbing, just to be careful, particularly in the first year.
I read about other climbers continuing to climb after similar surgery. Having the joint come apart is a big concern, but the surgeon who did mine only knew of one case out of over a 1000 of his surgeries. That case involved a person doing some extreme stretch during yoga, and I think he said that the person did this before the healing was complete. Also, and I think this is common, the replacement was made such that the joint was a little longer to help ensure that it doesn't pop out. In my case, I think it is roughly a cm longer.

 I started stretching my hip after four months and also started TR climbing. I've done a little wide stemming, but am more careful. High steps have felt fine. So, I think after a year or so, I should be pretty much back at full use of the hip in my climbing, but will probably always try to be a little cautious, particularly with weird twists such as the one Derek mentions above. 

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330

Reviving this thread. I’m looking at a hip replacement in a couple of months. Seems like there is a fair amount of anecdotal evidence that climbing is ok with a new hip. But I have not seen anyone mention bouldering specifically. They recommend to stop “high impact activity” especially running. I asked the surgeon about climbing and bouldering and he said those were fine, but I’m not sure he understands that bouldering involves landing on pads, even though I asked specifically about this. Anyone still bouldering after a hip replacement?

John Gill · · Colorado · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 27

You need to get in touch with Sherman: oldmanlightning.com/

WF WF51 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 0
csproul wrote:

Reviving this thread. I’m looking at a hip replacement in a couple of months. Seems like there is a fair amount of anecdotal evidence that climbing is ok with a new hip. But I have not seen anyone mention bouldering specifically. They recommend to stop “high impact activity” especially running. I asked the surgeon about climbing and bouldering and he said those were fine, but I’m not sure he understands that bouldering involves landing on pads, even though I asked specifically about this. Anyone still bouldering after a hip replacement?

Took a quick look in the literature. High-impact activities are discouraged, but high-impact doesn't seem to be well defined - not surprising given all the possible variables. Activities that involve twisting motions of the joint are discouraged as well. 

Stefanie Stewart · · Wilton, CA · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 0

I don't boulder that much but... after my hip replacement, I've never looked back. I climb rock, ski, hike, kayak harder than I ever had. I've even taken up ice climbing and I do own a crash pad, lol.  I found the right surgeon at UCSF. Many surgeons told me I would never be able to run, ski, climb again. They were wrong and my surgeon at UCSF told me I'd basically have no limitations. He was right. I forget I ever had a replacement. Yeah you probably don't want to be hucking yourself off cliffs or taking on giant high balls, and yes you need to have common sense as we age...but apparently the bone and appliance are as strong as native joint. I've crashed on my bike, smacked myself skiing and taken whippers and haven't had issues. My brother has the same hip issues I have and he got both hips replaced and is doing high impact martial arts with his surgeon's blessing.  It's the best thing I've ever done for myself. I just turned 62 and I'm on a high activity mission for the rest of my life. Find the right surgeon who fully understands your lifestyle and you won't regret it. Shop around and don't take no for an answer! Get a good PT on board during your recovery too.  Good luck! 

Tim Bratten · · Balcarce, AR · Joined May 2017 · Points: 3,086

I'm 11 years past revision surgery on my left hip (large ball ceramic on ceramic) and 9 years past resurfacing on the right hip. I climb regularly, bouldering and roped up. Nothing too spectacular, occasionally I send 5.11 and boulder V4. The fake hips don't bother me so far. 

Tim Bratten · · Balcarce, AR · Joined May 2017 · Points: 3,086
csproul wrote:

Reviving this thread. I’m looking at a hip replacement in a couple of months. Seems like there is a fair amount of anecdotal evidence that climbing is ok with a new hip. But I have not seen anyone mention bouldering specifically. They recommend to stop “high impact activity” especially running. I asked the surgeon about climbing and bouldering and he said those were fine, but I’m not sure he understands that bouldering involves landing on pads, even though I asked specifically about this. Anyone still bouldering after a hip replacement?

This was 10 months after the right surgery and two years 10 months after the left surgey. I'm still bouldering regulary at about the same levet 8 years latter. I don't boulder very hard, but the hips aren't what's putting up the bar. 



David H · · Twisp, WA · Joined Mar 2021 · Points: 0

Muy bueno!! What is your hangboard routine and how do you keep your hamstrings from snapping. I’m just short of two years from my hip replacement and it also is not my limiting event. Great video and awesome effort!

Tim Bratten · · Balcarce, AR · Joined May 2017 · Points: 3,086

Hi David H. I live right next to outstanding bouldering and some OK roped stuff. There's much better sport climbing 20 kms away. I also have a small, home climbing gym. To stay in shape I mostly hike and climb, no hangboarding. Which could explain why I'm not very strong!

David H · · Twisp, WA · Joined Mar 2021 · Points: 0

Thanks Tim.  I’m working my way back to an earlier (younger) level of fitness and have only been regularly climbing again since last June.  We have a fair amount of sport climbing in our valley which has helped.  Bouldering is available but more spread out and less accessible, though I’m finishing a 30m x 5m indoor gym. Snow on the ground here first of November until first of April.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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