Cimbing after Hip repacement surgery

Jon Neace                 ·         moments ago        ·                    Unknown Hometown                             · Joined 15 hours ago            · Points: 0               Hi all, I am an avid rock climber who is about to have a total hip replacement surgery due to osteoarthritis . My orthopedic surgeon strongly recommends to completely stop climbing after surgery (forever). His concern is the possibilities of the ball popping out of the socket due to the loads and stress put on the hip from climbing. Apparently if this happens you have big problems. I have asked about the possibility of just climbing easier grades. Again he insists its not worth the risk. If you have knowledge and/or experience in this area I sure would appreciate your thoughts. Thanks.
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Which approach? Anterior or posterior?
I had total hip replacement 3 years ago (anterior approach).  Was climbing again after 3 months.   The only concern my Doctor had was when I described a knee bar I had considered loading on a steep climb at RRG (would have been sideways and rotating).  He suggested I avoid those types of moves...
My fake hip is the least of my concerns now in regards to climbing

I had a "direct anterior" hip replacement five months ago. The assistant physicians I talked with didn't tell me to avoid climbing, just to be careful, particularly in the first year.
I read about other climbers continuing to climb after similar surgery. Having the joint come apart is a big concern, but the surgeon who did mine only knew of one case out of over a 1000 of his surgeries. That case involved a person doing some extreme stretch during yoga, and I think he said that the person did this before the healing was complete. Also, and I think this is common, the replacement was made such that the joint was a little longer to help ensure that it doesn't pop out. In my case, I think it is roughly a cm longer.

 I started stretching my hip after four months and also started TR climbing. I've done a little wide stemming, but am more careful. High steps have felt fine. So, I think after a year or so, I should be pretty much back at full use of the hip in my climbing, but will probably always try to be a little cautious, particularly with weird twists such as the one Derek mentions above. 

Reviving this thread. I’m looking at a hip replacement in a couple of months. Seems like there is a fair amount of anecdotal evidence that climbing is ok with a new hip. But I have not seen anyone mention bouldering specifically. They recommend to stop “high impact activity” especially running. I asked the surgeon about climbing and bouldering and he said those were fine, but I’m not sure he understands that bouldering involves landing on pads, even though I asked specifically about this. Anyone still bouldering after a hip replacement?

You need to get in touch with Sherman: oldmanlightning.com/

csproulwrote:

Reviving this thread. I’m looking at a hip replacement in a couple of months. Seems like there is a fair amount of anecdotal evidence that climbing is ok with a new hip. But I have not seen anyone mention bouldering specifically. They recommend to stop “high impact activity” especially running. I asked the surgeon about climbing and bouldering and he said those were fine, but I’m not sure he understands that bouldering involves landing on pads, even though I asked specifically about this. Anyone still bouldering after a hip replacement?

Took a quick look in the literature. High-impact activities are discouraged, but high-impact doesn't seem to be well defined - not surprising given all the possible variables. Activities that involve twisting motions of the joint are discouraged as well. 

I don't boulder that much but... after my hip replacement, I've never looked back. I climb rock, ski, hike, kayak harder than I ever had. I've even taken up ice climbing and I do own a crash pad, lol.  I found the right surgeon at UCSF. Many surgeons told me I would never be able to run, ski, climb again. They were wrong and my surgeon at UCSF told me I'd basically have no limitations. He was right. I forget I ever had a replacement. Yeah you probably don't want to be hucking yourself off cliffs or taking on giant high balls, and yes you need to have common sense as we age...but apparently the bone and appliance are as strong as native joint. I've crashed on my bike, smacked myself skiing and taken whippers and haven't had issues. My brother has the same hip issues I have and he got both hips replaced and is doing high impact martial arts with his surgeon's blessing.  It's the best thing I've ever done for myself. I just turned 62 and I'm on a high activity mission for the rest of my life. Find the right surgeon who fully understands your lifestyle and you won't regret it. Shop around and don't take no for an answer! Get a good PT on board during your recovery too.  Good luck! 

I'm 11 years past revision surgery on my left hip (large ball ceramic on ceramic) and 9 years past resurfacing on the right hip. I climb regularly, bouldering and roped up. Nothing too spectacular, occasionally I send 5.11 and boulder V4. The fake hips don't bother me so far. 

csproulwrote:

Reviving this thread. I’m looking at a hip replacement in a couple of months. Seems like there is a fair amount of anecdotal evidence that climbing is ok with a new hip. But I have not seen anyone mention bouldering specifically. They recommend to stop “high impact activity” especially running. I asked the surgeon about climbing and bouldering and he said those were fine, but I’m not sure he understands that bouldering involves landing on pads, even though I asked specifically about this. Anyone still bouldering after a hip replacement?

This was 10 months after the right surgery and two years 10 months after the left surgey. I'm still bouldering regulary at about the same levet 8 years latter. I don't boulder very hard, but the hips aren't what's putting up the bar. 

Muy bueno!! What is your hangboard routine and how do you keep your hamstrings from snapping. I’m just short of two years from my hip replacement and it also is not my limiting event. Great video and awesome effort!

Hi David H. I live right next to outstanding bouldering and some OK roped stuff. There's much better sport climbing 20 kms away. I also have a small, home climbing gym. To stay in shape I mostly hike and climb, no hangboarding. Which could explain why I'm not very strong!

Thanks Tim.  I’m working my way back to an earlier (younger) level of fitness and have only been regularly climbing again since last June.  We have a fair amount of sport climbing in our valley which has helped.  Bouldering is available but more spread out and less accessible, though I’m finishing a 30m x 5m indoor gym. Snow on the ground here first of November until first of April.

Hi,

I am an IFMGA/UIAGM mountain guide. I'm 34 years old. In 2019, I had right hip surgery using the PAO method. I have to have another surgery this year. The doctor advised me against BHR and recommends THR (Dual Mobility Hip Replacement) . I'm looking for people who have had this surgery and  they can write what their hip condition looks like. Have you returned to your climbing level? What is yours hip mobility and what is the difference in mobility  between a healthy and operated hip? What was your recovery like? When did you return to climbing? 

I'm asking for help (I'm devastated)

Regards

Had a hip replacement over 8 years ago at 43. Climb better than ever before and sent 2 of my hardest sport routes (13b’s). I alpine climb, multi pitch, still go bouldering etc. You will be fine, your doctor has nothing to gain by telling you to keep living life. I say get out there and pay attention to how you feel and just build up again.

Had THR of right hip (mini-posterior approach) six months ago.  54 years old, dysplasia and torn labrum. Was back in the gym doing intro, V0, and V1 boulders 2.5 weeks later. I did a ton of prehab (bouldered until 2 days before surgery) and worked with a personal trainer 2 weeks post-surgery to build strength and range.  Stuck with low finish climbs because dropping was painful. Top roped about 4 weeks in to make sure the harness didn't press on the incision.  Sent my first V3 post-surgery at 9 weeks, my first V4 a week ago. I could drop without pain at about 4 months, but I still avoid high finishes. I was very worried that surgery would mean no more climbing but I'm more or less back to where I was pre-surgery, just without pain. I counted myself healed at about 5 months when I rocked over on my new hip with all my weight, full squat, and didn't even notice until I watched the video later.  My range of motion is back to where it was before. Surgeon knows I'm bouldering, and his only remaining caution is to avoid a deep piriformis stretch (bringing right leg across my midline). As long as I don't put a ton of torque on it, I've felt fine with knee drops, inside flag, and stepping across with my right leg. I'm thrilled with the results. A year ago I was in screaming pain after walking 10 miles, but at 3 months I could walk the same distance with zero pain.  Just listen to your body, and you should be fine. Good luck! 

Just had anterior hip replacement 5 days ago and am encouraged by all the elder beasts in this thread!

Any advice on resuming upper body type workouts? My surgical team says basically just walking for 6 weeks, and it’s hard to find info on whether it’s ok as a climber to start doing any hangboarding, upper body type things like right NOW haha.

tony ywrote:

Just had anterior hip replacement 5 days ago and am encouraged by all the elder beasts in this thread!

Any advice on resuming upper body type workouts? My surgical team says basically just walking for 6 weeks, and it’s hard to find info on whether it’s ok as a climber to start doing any hangboarding, upper body type things like right NOW haha.

I climbed a 5.8 in the gym 2.5 weeks after total anterior hip replacement.  I sent a video of my gym climbing to my surgeon and he was pleased.  The only restriction I had was “ no lunges”.  I climbed outside 4.5 weeks after surgery and started to lead 6 weeks later.  Of course, falling was not advised.  

tony ywrote:

Just had anterior hip replacement 5 days ago and am encouraged by all the elder beasts in this thread!

Any advice on resuming upper body type workouts? My surgical team says basically just walking for 6 weeks, and it’s hard to find info on whether it’s ok as a climber to start doing any hangboarding, upper body type things like right NOW haha.

Why not resume upper body right now? I have to say, rock climbing helped me a lot in the first few days because I was levering myself around the house on my arms, crimping on door frames, and pulling myself upright on whatever I could grab. I worked out on my pull up bar, lifted weights, and used my TRX straps to keep the core and upper body strong. Definitely work out your core too because that will help support your new hip as you rehab!

tony ywrote:

Just had anterior hip replacement 5 days ago and am encouraged by all the elder beasts in this thread!

Any advice on resuming upper body type workouts? My surgical team says basically just walking for 6 weeks, and it’s hard to find info on whether it’s ok as a climber to start doing any hangboarding, upper body type things like right NOW haha.

I'm no doctor, but I can't see what the problem would be. Post op is about the only time in my life I've kept fairly accurate records of my physical progress. I started bouldering around in my home gym at about 5 weeks (no falls), started leading on rock outdoors at 2 months and started bouldering outside at around 15 weeks. Full recovery was somewhere around 10 months. Certainly walking is a great recovery activity. I'm 13 and a-half years on the left hip and 12 and a-half years on the right hip. So far so good!

That’s amazing! I was wondering if I should be thinking about doing the other hip as well. I‘m glad to hear your bionic parts are holding up after more than a decade!