ATC Guide mode from harness
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Might be a stupid question, but while delaying my second the other day using guide mode from the anchor, I got to thinking. Does anybody put their ATC on guide mode on their harness when delaying from the bottom in order to act as more of an assisted braking device? I tried it out belaying someone and it worked really well just not sure if theres a reason people don't do this. |
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I've heard of folks (european guides, if my memory is working) using atc in guide mode for lead rope soloing. |
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Brandon.S wrote: using it to ascend 100% works and is a really slick trick if you happen to accidentally miss a rap station. |
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Matt Kelly wrote: Might be a stupid question, but while delaying my second the other day using guide mode from the anchor, I got to thinking. Does anybody put their ATC on guide mode on their harness when delaying from the bottom in order to act as more of an assisted braking device? I tried it out belaying someone and it worked really well just not sure if theres a reason people don't do this. Yes, this works and can be a great way to go if you chain a second biner to the rope bearing one and lock it to your belay loop or use a locker draw for the same purpose. The idea is that when your climber gets to the top or wants to be lowered they un weight for a half second and you unclip the guide mode biner thus transitioning the setup to a normal (but somewhat extended) atc setup for the lower. Works like a charm.just make sure you know how to and practice lowering in this orientation if they are unable to un weight the rope.. |
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Daniel Kay wrote: Or are having communication issues w/ your partner. |
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This sounds SO dangerous |
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Yep, some people do this for belaying someone on TR. A locking quickdraw makes it easy to transition to lowering. I've heard it called an alpine grigri. I guess you can use this method if you're too cheap to buy an ABD. |