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Should I increase rest times for my hangboard repeaters? Or end session when I fail?

Original Post
DavidOwen DavidOwen · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 0

Yet another hangboard question! I finally got a beastmaker 1000 and I’ve been doing some of the easier beastmaker app protocols (though they’re pretty intense and long). Right now, if I strictly follow the app protocol, I can’t finish the entire workout. My question is, shou https://sarkariresult.onl/ ld I stop the session as soon as I start to fail, and keep progressing weekly/monthly until I can finish it as prescribed? Or should I just increase rest times in between sets for now so I can complete the entire Mobdro  protocol, and then slowly shorten the rest times as I progress? If I do longer rests, I can definitely finish the whole work out, but I’m not sure if this approach would be as effective since I’m recovering much longer. (Been climbing for a little over a year, can do most V6-5.12 indoors, bit less outdoors). Any advice is greatly appreciated!
 

Short Fall Sean · · Bishop, CA · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 7

I'm not familiar with the Beastmaker workouts, but if it's a matter of not getting enough rests between work intervals then it sounds like you're largely training power endurance. In that case the general prescription would be to aim to just about finish the workout (or fail right near the end) and then decrease rest times as you get better at it. So I say lengthen the rests and then work on bringing them back down.

Now get ready for people telling you:

1) Your footwork is atrocious, you need to climb more
2) Training is not necessary until you climb 5.13
3) A hangboard is for strength training, not power endurance. You're doing it wrong, gumby.
4) V6 in the gym isn't shit. That's like 5.4 in the Gunks.

Xi Yin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 420

I've tried the beginner beastmaker workouts and in my opinion it is good for maintaining some kind of shape when you don't get to do much sport climbing. If the goal is to improve finger strength and to break through a plateau, then it's not useful because it puts way too much emphasis on endurance and not nearly enough on finger/hand strength. Now I do the opposite kind of workout: much more rest (3 minutes instead of 3 seconds) and just a few quality hangs at the absolute max weight with different grips, especially the half crimp and the 3-finger drag. Within a month I gained about 30 lb in my half crimp strength.

B Jolley · · Utah · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 172

I have used the beastmaker hangboard protocol and I struggled at first. The key is to offset your weight for the first few weeks and slowly reduce your offset. This should allow you to achieve the full routine without getting over worked. If you haven't done a great deal of hangboarding you will need to offset your weight to avoid finger injuries, even if you climb 5.12 plus. Do the warm up routine prior to any hanging or climbing.

Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 470

absolutely. you should do at least six bong hits between each burn...

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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