Quick Link question

Is a Quick Link with a 1500lb load limit safe to lower off a bolt on a sport route (in the case you cannot complete the route)?

You most likely won't die. But please use a carabiner instead. Easier (and much safer) for you to clip into and lower off and easier for the next person to remove.

Don't bail off quicklinks it's a pain for the next person. Just use a carabiner.

Drew S wrote: Is a Quick Link with a 1500lb load limit safe to lower off a bolt on a sport route (in the case you cannot complete the route)?

Don’t leave that shit on a climb! How would you like it when you get to some rusted in place POS, can’t unscrew it, don’t wish to clip into a weak ass POS.... think about it. 

Please get with the program. Get and carry a ditch biner- use it. Be a good citizen. 

Don’t  use a quick link to bail off of sport climbs. Use a bail carabiner. If you really don’t want to use a carabiner, stick clip your way up.

Aside from not leaving a quick link, can you answer your own question? How much do you weigh? Under what circumstances could you generate more than 1500 pounds of force. You don’t have to be an engineer to figure this out.

Drew S wrote: Is a Quick Link with a 1500lb load limit safe to lower off a bolt on a sport route (in the case you cannot complete the route)?

We use 6mm quick links (7kN rated approx 1570lb, although we have tested 'em to get approx 24kN = 5400lb) to rappel as well as connection point "beak - maillon - dogbone - krab" in belay chain. It is perfectly safe.

Although. It is just bad. There will be folks after you attempting this very route. Would you be happy to find that shit on your way up the route? Taking in account you never know how good it has been tighten by that anonymous Joe, huh?

Leave a binner.

Drew, I don’t mean to jam you but being able to figure shit out is a major requirement in all of climbing. Figuring out the moves on a route, figuring out wether leading off of all of the gear you’ll ever place is safe, setting up anchors, rapping off, figuring out the weather, figuring out how long a route will take.
Us Big Wall climber say that Big Wall climbing is a constant problem solving endeavor. In reality, all of climbing is a constant problem solving endeavor.

Mark Hudon wrote: Drew, I don’t mean to jam you but being able to figure shit out is a major requirement in all of climbing. Figuring out the moves on a route, figuring out wether leading off of all of the gear you’ll ever place is safe, setting up anchors, rapping off, figuring out the weather, figuring out how long a route will take.
Us Big Wall climber say that Big Wall climbing is a constant problem solving endeavor. In reality, all of climbing is a constant problem solving endeavor.

It's easier to ask on social media than to bother to think.

Marc801 C wrote:

It's easier to ask on social media than to bother to think.

The same time it is better to ask than to be uncertain.

I would suggest we should neither blame people nor joke on them for asking questions. Especially in this very forum "Beginning Climbers".

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1902167602/the-firefly-recover-your-lost-climbing-gear

no one here wants your non-booty-able quick link. please leave them a nice shiny new preferably higher end biner, maybe on a dogbone with another preferably high end biner....

Will Shaw wrote: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1902167602/the-firefly-recover-your-lost-climbing-gear

A great option if you want to waste money on something "neat" from an engineering standpoint but practically not very useful...

MojoMonkey wrote:

A great option if you want to waste money on something "neat" from an engineering standpoint but practically not very useful...

Never said it was useful, but I'll give it "neat."

Drew S wrote: Is a Quick Link with a 1500lb load limit safe to lower off a bolt on a sport route (in the case you cannot complete the route)?

As has been said, don't leave quicklinks as bail biners, but just so that people are aware, the load limit specified on things like quicklinks is typically the mean breaking strength with a safety factor of 4 or 5 applied to it, that means that the breaking strength is 4 to 5 times the stated working load limit (so in this case ~6000 to ~7500 lbs).

You don't know until you know.

Pavel Burov wrote:

The same time it is better to ask than to be uncertain.

I would suggest we should neither blame people nor joke on them for asking questions. Especially in this very forum "Beginning Climbers".

While I certainly agree in spirit, I'm referring to the huge difference between:

Q: Is this safe to use?

vs

Q: Is this safe to use? I weigh x and figured that a bounce could easily double or triple that, but that's still below the rated strength. Am I missing something?

I mean, at least put in a little effort and thought.

Will Shaw wrote: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1902167602/the-firefly-recover-your-lost-climbing-gear

4 out of 5 booty pirates dislike this post.....one of the 5 was high......

Yes. 

Former Climber wrote:

Been chewing on replying to this a long while, and simply: No.  You can NOT assume a safety factor on generic quicklinks.

I broke a bunch of generic 5/16" quicklinks a while back with 1550lb WLL, and they broke in a wide range 4000-5000lb.  AT BEST that's a 3:1 WLL, with significant variation in strength.

That's 17-22 kN.  I'll keep using quicklinks.